Pence Jug Knit Along

Pence Jug Knit Along

Starts: Sunday July 9th

Step by step portions of the pattern will be posted at the beginning of each week. These portions will include photographs, and other other helpful directions. This is a social event, so if you ever have questions, please ask! Wanna chat, and share pictures… please do! And if you want to join, just let me know! The knit along directions will take five weeks.

Material List: 

  1. Size 00 & 0 Double Point Knitting Needles or Circular Needles (You will need both sizes of needles)
  2. 15 grams of size 11/0 galvanized glass beads, or if you are lucky enough to find them… you can use antique steel cut french beads
  3. 25 grams of silk lace yarn (size 0 or 2/20) or beading thread
  4. Stainless Steel Blank Ring size 9 – 11

Where to get all these supplies? I carry everything you need to make a pence jug, and can thread your beads onto your silk for you, in my Etsy Store

If you are going to thread the beads onto your own, it will take about two hours to do by hand. A bead spinner will help expedite the process. Here is the bead spinner I use.

The History of the Pattern

The Pence jug is a very old style of miser purse. The pattern we will be working on, was developed by studying an original in the Smithsonian Institution that is dated 1830 – 1860.  It is a very small purse, that only measured 4 inches tall, by 2 ” wide. 


A few more fun photos of pence jugs I have made


I look forward to working on this project with everyone, and seeing all your pretty pence jugs! Please email, or comment on my blog or facebook with any questions! Don’t have time to make a pence jug, you can order one custom made to suit your preference from my Etsy store!


~ Jamie Quick


1863 Knit Purse (Historical Pattern for Modern Knitter)

Godey’s Knit Silk Purse, 1863

Skill Level: Easy. If you can knit and purl with fine thread (think doily), you can make this purse! This purse does include some basic sewing and has a crochet border. However, if you can’t crochet, the purse is still pretty without the border.

Materials: 25 Grams of Silk yarn, size 00 – 000 needles, embroidery needle, 3″ cardboard or plastic for making tassels, sewing needle, thread. *Optional* materials include silk taffeta for lining, and a crochet hook size 1.80 – 1.90 MM.

Size: Without the tassels, the bag part of this purse measures approximately 3.5 inches wide (5 inches if stretched) and 5 inches tall.

What type of Yarn do I need?:  I use and sell silk that is somewhere between lace weight and 20/2 cobweb.  You can purchase silk at my Etsy store, or from a number of other places. I have used both reeled mulberry and cultivated mulberry silks. Both work fine, but have different feels to them.

Let’s Get Knitting!!

Cast on 45 stitches, with long tail method

Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: k1, *yo, k2tog* repeat from * to * till end
Row 6: purl
Row 7: knit
Row 8: knit

Time to Change Colors

When attaching a new color, do not cut your old string! Attach new color by tying a knot onto the previously used string. This will create a prettier attachment, as you will not have a knot or stress point in your work. Make sure all tie on strings are about six inches long, so you can easily weave them in with an embroidery needle.

Row 9: Starting with your new color, knit
Row 10: purl

Carrying your second color

Before you knit row 11, understand that now you have two different colors of yarn attached to your work, and you need to carry them up the side. (Why? Because it is much easier then cutting and retying your yarn with every stripe, and creates a stronger product) You will do this by knitting the first stitch of row 11, 13, and 15 in both colors of yarn. You will knit the rest of the row in it’s normal color. When you purl in rows 12, 14, and 16 you will treat both loops of color as one stitch, and purl them together. Do not worry, this is the side of the purse that you will be sewing together at the bottom, so you will never see the stitches carried up the side!

When you purl your two colors together on the next row, it will look like this! Note that you did not increase your stitch count!

Row 11: knit
Row 12: purl
Row 13: k1, *yo, k2tog* repeat from * to * till end
Row 14: purl
Row 15: knit
Row 16: knit

Repeat rows 9 – 16: until you start stripe 20. Remember to carry your yarn up the side! In the 20th stripe, you will bind off on row 16, and do so purl wise. I suggest a stretchy lace bind off or binding off with a larger needle.

A Lace Bind off: knit two, bind of one stitch. *Yo, knit 1. Bind off yo, then bind off knit stitch, k1, bind of k1* repeat

When Cutting Your String: Cut when you have finished row 8 of the alternate color, and need to reattach the color once more for use. Always cut tails to be at least 6 inches long

Helpful Tips – Ever need to set down your work? If you are worried about your stitches falling off your needles you can attach rubber bands to the ends.

Weave in the Tails

Snug up stitches if necessary. Then, thread embroidery needle with the tail, and weave tails threw the very tops of the stitches on the wrong side of your work. Weave at least 3 inches and then trim. Note: this purse was made before I started carrying the yarn up the side. Messy looking isn’t it!


I like to line this purse with black silk taffeta, as knitting is stretchy and I don’t want any non-historical items peeping through! To do this I pin my knitting wrong side up onto a blocking board (10″ by 5″), and sew on the lining.


Sew together the sides of the work first. I recommend sewing on the rightsize of the work (so you can make sure it is nearly invisible), with matching silk thread. Once the top is finished, you will have a tube.

Take the rougher side of the purse, were you joined the yarn. This is the side you will sew together to make the bottom. Pinch together the bottom, and sew/pull the bottom closed. Finish by going inside the purse to the wrong side. Tie a few small knots and weave tail through the tops of the stitches. 

Crochet Border

Row 1: Attach color of choice. Ch2, 5hdc in each strip, slip stitch into the top of the ch2 to join.
Row 2: Ch2, all the way around, hdc in the third loop, slip stitch into the top of the ch2 to join.
Row 3: slip stitch in third loop, all the way around.
Row 4: chain 7, skip 3 stitches, sc into the third loop, slip stitch to join. 

Cut off, weave in tail.

Need to learn how to hdc in the third loop? Here is a video to help.


I use a 3″ quilting ruler to make my tassels, and wrap the yarn around the ruler 45 times. I suggest making tassels with other yarn before digging into your silk. Wool is the easiest fiber to start making tassels with, as it doesn’t slip all over the  place while you are getting used to knotting your tassel. Tassel video . When to making the tassels for the cords, I use a 58 inch string that is folded in half, and do a loop knot twice. I make my cords by braided the tassel strings together, but a twisted cord is historically accurate as well! 

Attaching your bottom tassels – With needle bring all threads from the bottom tassel through the bottom of the purse, tie and weave in.

Side tassels/drawstring cords – With larger tapestry needle or crochet hook, weave in cords for side tassels. You want each side of the purse to have the tassels enter. Each tassel has two cords, each gets woven on their own side and is attached with thread and needle in the middle. Do, the same with the other sides cords, to create a drawstring that pulls shut.

I sew mine in so that there is 6.5 – 7.5 inches between the tops of the tassels and the purse entry, when the purse is completely open.

And your done!! 

A look into the Historical Pattern

The Historical Pattern is actually pretty much the same as the pattern I gave you! There is only a few differences.

  • The Historical pattern says to knit the sixth row, and purl both the seventh and eight rows. I changed this, because I thought my alteration looked more like the featured photograph, and I liked it better.
  • Godey’s magazine say’s to finish the purse in a narrow crochet border, but doesn’t give instructions as to how. So, I designed a border as close to the image as I could.
  • Just for fun – the purse was recommended to be made in two or more colors, — “blue and brown, violet and scarlet, or pink and black; but as this is entirely a mater of taste, we only suggest these colors as contrasting well together.” Imagine, a time when purple and red were considered a tasteful combination! πŸ™‚

Finished Projects

Enjoy the pattern! Please comment or email me with any questions, pattern notes, or success stories. For those who prefer it, I sell these purses ready made and custom made in my Etsy shop.


Hand Dyed Yarns

Hey Sis,

Learning to hand dye yarn has been an adventure, a fun one, but an adventure none the less. Thankfully, dye is forgiving! If I don’t like how something comes out, I can throw it back in the pot again. I have been learning how many grams of dye solution I need to produce the colors I want, how to get an even dye job, about steaming, and various techniques. It has taken a lot of time, but the results are worth it. Here are three colors of my hand dyed yarns. 

Love, Jamiegoof!


1861 Crochet Purse (Historic Pattern for Modern Crocheter)

Dear Sis, thanks so much for helping me get this pattern ready! πŸ™‚

Peterson’s Crochet Silk Purse, 1861

Skill Level: Easy. If you can crochet with fine thread (think doily) and do the slip stitch, double crochet and chain you can make it!

Materials: 25 grams of Silk Yarn (or more if you use a larger hook or want much fuller tassels), 1.80 or 1.90 MM crochet hook, embroidery needle, 3″ cardboard or plastic for making tassels, sewing needle, thread (I use a ply of the silk yarn)

Size: Without tassels, is approximately 4.5 – 5 inches long and 3.5 inches wide.

What Type of Yarn do I need?: I use and sell silk that is somewhere between lace weight and 20/2 cobweb.  You can purchase silk at my Etsy store, or from a number of other places. I have used both reeled mulberry and cultivated mulberry silks. Both work fine, but have different feels to them.

Your crocheting is complete! Now, time for tassels and cords.

Bottom Tassels: Watch a Youtube Video on How to Make Tassels and Practice! Seriously, if you have never made tassels before, don’t dig into your silk yet. Make tassels with cotton or wool yarn first.

My tassels are made with a 3″ wide Quilting Ruler, and my silk is wrapped around it 45 times. I do a simple loop knot twice.Once, I have three tassels, I tie the three tassels together. Drawl the yarn up through the bottom hole in the purse, tie knots to secure, and weave the yarn through my work (only on the inside, don’t weave it through, so that it shows on both sides of your work) and cut off the extra string.

Tassels and Cords: Cords can be twisted or braided. I braid my cords.  My cords are simply the strings that tie off the top of the tassel. They are 58 inches long and folded in half… so you will have six strings per group of tassels. I then knot all six strings together about 3/4 of an inch above the tassels, separate strings into two groups, and braid.  When the cords are made. I fold the purse and half and weave the cords from one tassel in and out of row 30… both in different directions, till they meet in the center. Then, I decide how long I want my cords to be, when my purse is fully opened, and sew the strings down to the inside of the purse. Repeat on the other side, so that you have a drawstring opening and closure.

A Look into the Historical Pattern

This is what was featured in Peterson’s Magazine, in 1861. Like most patterns of the time, accuracy wasn’t really a thing. If you look closely at this pattern, you will discover it isn’t actually mathematically correct. Ladies looked at the directions, pictures, and made something work.  Which, is exactly what I did. The pattern below, is my adaptation of the above pattern. What did I change?

  • I closed the bottom to the purse. This was a preference of mine. If you want an open bottom, go for it! If you keep the same number of stitches, as I have in each round, your purse will be the same shape and size.
  • I didn’t follow the bottom diagram. The bottom diagram shows 1dc in the chain one space, and a dc in each stitch next to the chain. I choose to do 3dc in each ch1 space. Why? Because, it creates a prettier hole. In fact, when I followed the directions, it didn’t give me a pretty gap at all.
  • I didn’t add as much frill to the top. 

Fun Pictures of the Finished Projects!

Enjoy the pattern! Please comment or email me with any questions, pattern notes, or success stories. For those who prefer it, I sell these purses ready made and custom made in my Etsy shop.


Another Quick Wedding

Hi Sis,

This April, Nate’s oldest brother got married, and I got another awesome sister! We couldn’t be happier for the couple. here are some of the wedding details!!

Since, the wedding was in Cincinnati, we drove down to our hotel the night before. Nate’s father and grandparents arrived shortly after and we went to dinner at Skyline. Nate wanted to introduce me to Cincinnati chili, and I have to admit it is great stuff!

Afterwards, we met up with Nate’s mother’s side of the family. We went to a place called Top golf. Which, is essentially a mixture of golf and bowling, I suppose. lol You hit the golf ball, and aim for a large disk target in the field. Each ball has a chip, and it records your points based on how how close to the center of the target you hit, and which target you hit. (Some targets are farther away, and they are worth more points). It was a total blast, even for the few of us that didn’t golf at all. It turns out there are some very serious golfers in Nate’s family, and there are some seriously lame people like me that can barely hit the golf ball. But, we all had fun.

In the morning, we woke up early to help set up the wedding. Ellen and I went to Walmart to get sign making supplies, as people’s gps were sending them to the wrong park entry. We got terribly lost in Walmart, couldn’t find any employee’s to help us, and took over a half an hour to find some balloons, signs, markers and mason jars. Yeah, it was pathetic. But, the sign Ellen made was pretty darn cute!During the wedding prep, Mellisa approached us and asked Ellen and I if we would participate in the wedding and walk David (my father-in law) down the aisle. We both agreed. And before we knew it the wedding was starting!!

Okay, none of us look very photogenic. lol The path was just about to get narrower (barely big enough for two people), and we were three people wide. So we ended up walking down the aisle sideways. hehehehe

The wedding ceremony was written by the couple, and their best friend whom became an officiant for the event! It was super fast and sweet. And then the couple was wed!

The rest of the night followed by music, food and lots and lots of talking. I ended up being a table jumper, and kept hoping back and forth visiting different family members. We also got to enjoy some of the outdoors, as the wedding was in a hall at the park.Nate forced me to do the dreaded couple picture, when I came outside to give him a cup of water. What was I thinking, I should have just stayed in the hall. He would have been fine!!! I am pretty sure the photographer (whom didn’t speak English as his first language) told me pose and pretend that I thought I was pretty. lol

Oh, and one more picture of the beautiful bride in the wedding shawl I made!!! Thankfully, the weather was so nice that she didn’t really use it. But, she did put it on for a few photos.Love,



Bye Bye Chicks

Hi Sis,

It’s a few months after you, but spring has finally sprung at our snow-belt home! The chicks have been hatching, and I started actually shipping chicks this year! 

Here are some of my babies that are ready for the post office! These little guys arrived in Florida this morning!

I have been shipping 1 day Express, for some reason that is what my post office wanted me to do? (Just in case you were wondering most chicks are shipped 3 day priority). But, I am happy to pay extra in postage, if my chicks arrive at their new home faster!




Dyeing Yarn

Hey sis,

The silk purses in my Etsy shop have been my best selling product, and I have been going through the silk yarn! I was starting to run out, when I contacted my previous supplier to ask for more. None available! So, I contacted the yarn producer in India. Two weeks of communication, and they were ready to send me an invoice. Then, they told me they didn’t have what I wanted either.

That’s it, I decided. I needed yarn, and there was no way I could afford to purchase silk embroidery or beading floss. That stuff is like $0.50/yard. I had to purchase and dye my own silk. I did some research and discovered that I needed to do acid dyeing over the stovetop for silk. So, I purchased all my supplies, and today I got down to business.

 Step 1: Put on your respirator, and make 1% dye solution. Mix 10 grams of dye with some warm water. Shake until mixed. Then add enough water so that you there is 1000 grams of solution in the jug. Step 2: Add silk to the dyeing pot with water. If you want a even color of silk, it is best to add enough water that the silk can swim in it, vs bathing in a little pool. It does look like there is much water in this pot, but the silk will float at the start.Step: 3 Measure out your solution. You will need approximately 100 grams for a medium shade. I wanted a deep black, not a dark purple, so I used 200 grams of the 1% solution. Step 4: Add the dye solution to the pot, and stir it around.  Step 5: keep gently poking until you reach 180 degrees F. Then add citric acid (for my 100 grams of yarn, I added 3/4 teaspoon) At the 180 degree point, set a timer for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally, and try to keep it cool enough to not boil. At about 10 minutes in, I could already see the dye seeping into the yarn. At about 20 minutes most of the dye is in the yarn, and it is actually black.The finished product! Now I have to dye two more hanks, as I have a lady that wants to buy them. πŸ™‚ 

What I learned later:

Allow yarn to soak overnight in water first, and add some Syothopol about a half an hour before the heating process. This will create a more even dye job. After dyeing, allow your yarn to sit in the dye bath overnight. Rinse in lukewarm water, then allow to dry. Then steam to set dye.




Welcome to the Farm!

Hi Sis,

We have new arrivals at the farm. Lots of chicks are hatching, but I also got some chicks shipped in. My Rosecomb Rhode Island Red Chicks from Master Exhibitor and judge Dick Horstman! I can’t wait to see these babies grow. I ordered twenty-five chicks, and he shipped me 20 rosecombs and 5 single combed red. I sold the five single combs to a local fellow poultryman, and currently have 18 surviving rosecombs left.Love,