Sock Yarns

Hi Sis,

I have been adding sock yarns to my Etsy shop! It has been fun learning how to do indy dyeing, or should I say playing around and making random art. lol 

I wasn’t pleased with my first few hanks, but I really like my last few. I am learning not only what colors look good together, but how concentrated dye can be and how sometimes adding one color on top of another, doesnt always produce the color I originally wanted. 

Love Jamiegoof

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Knitted Opera or Traveling Hood

Hi Sis

I figured it was about time I put up one of my favorite historical hood patterns! 

This winter hood is seriously one of the lightest and warmest hoods I’ve ever worn. It is hand knit with wool yarn, lined in smooth silk taffeta, and the border is ultra soft, fluffy, and wind blocking turkey down. Now on to the pattern!

Knitted Opera or Traveling Hood

Adapted from: Godey’ Lady’s Book & Magazine, 1862

Material List
1 Hank (1.8 oz) of Burgundy & Antique White
2 – Feathered Boa’s (These are special boas… not sold at craft stores)
2.5 yards 2 inch silk or poly ribbon
Size 2 knitting needles
Embroidery and Sewing Needles
Blocking Boards & Pins
Silk Thread and Silk Taffeta Fabric for Lining
Cotton for cord, or thin silk ribbon (tiny drawlstring)

Note: Want to use thicker yarn! That is fine, the pattern is created through measuring instead of counting rows!

Abbreviations and Stitches:

k = knit
kfb = increase, by knitting in the front and back of the loop
k2tog = decrease, by knitting 2 stitches together
 

Pattern

Cast on 4 stitches
Row 1: Knit till last stitch, kfb 
Row 2: Knit till last stitch, kfb
Row 3: Knit till last stitch, kfb
Row 4: Knit till last stitch, kfb

Change color: Don’t be confused by images, you are NOT doing stockinette! 

Row 5: Tie on new color of yarn, knit till last stitch, kfb
Row 6: Knit till last stitch, kfb
Row 7: Knit both colors of yarn into first stitch, this will help you carry your yarn. Knit till last stitch, kfb
Row 8: Knit till last stitch, kfb, swap colors
Row 9: Knit till last stitch, kfb
Row 10: Knit till last stitch, kfb
Row 11: Knit both colors of yarn into first stitch. Knit till last stitch, kfb
Row 12: Knittill last stitch, kfb
Repeat rows 9 – 12: swapping colors every four rows, continue until you measure 21” wide on the side.

You are now half way done knitting your hood! Now instead of increasing at the end of the row, you will do a decrease. Like this

Decrease Rows

Row 1: Knit till last two stitches, k2tog
Row 2: Kni  till last two stitches, K2tog
Row 3: Knit both colors of yarn into first stitch, knit till last two stitches, k2tog
Row 4: Knit till last two stitches, k2tog
Repeat decrease rows 1 – 4: swapping coors every four rows, continue until you have 4 stitches a the bottom. Bind off.

Yay!!! You have finished knitting your hood! 

Blocking Your Hood

You will be using the water method to block your hood. Since you are working with wool, you must use cold water. This is because hot water could felt your wool. 

You can block your wool in two methods. One is putting it in cold water, and gently wringing out all the water you can. The other method, is pinning your hood to a blocking board, and misting it with cold water from a spray bottle. 

You should bock your hood to be 21’ x 21’

Sewing

Step one: Round the top portion of your hood slightly, so that you don’t have a triangle forehead that flops all over the place. Do this by folding over the fabric and pinning. 

Step two: Measure silk taffeta and cut. (Make sure it is 1 inch larger then your knitting, about 22 by 22 inches. This is so you have a half inch to fold under for all seams. You will be rounding the one corner so you don’t have a pointed head!

Why Line Your Hood– Most knit hoods are were not lined, so why do I recommend lining this hood? One, it is not double knit. So, it will be a thin and cold hood without the silk. Two, the silk is an excellent insulator, and great at blocking wind… even better than double knitting. Three, you need to add a drawl string to your hood, or it will fall off your head, and it looks better if you have a lining and casing… vs. weaving a drawlstring in and out of your work.

Don’t want to use silk? A light wool, or perhaps a cotton. Tight weave or a flannel would be great. You don’t want a thin broadcloth. 

Step three: Sew on your taffeta!

Step four: Time to sew on that fuzzy boa! By the way, this will take forever! Try not to pin down your fluffies while sewing.

Step five: Sew a casing and add your drawlstring. I did mine about five inches from the bottom. This string will drawl the hood around your head, so that it doesn’t slip!

Step six: Sew on your fashionable 2″ silk or poly ribbons. I sewed mine about 2.5 inches from the bottom.

Step seven: Gather the very center of the hood. For me this was about 14 inches from the center and pointed bottom and rounded top. And about 10 inches from pointed both sides. 

Step eight: Make a bow and attach it about 11 inches from the pointed bottom. Never made a ribbon bow before? Try with some ribbon you don’t care about first. It doesn’t have to be 2 inch ribbon, some 1 – 1.5 inch scrap would be fine. 

Enjoy your winter hood!

A look into the historical pattern 

I’ve had people ask my source for the turkey down: Swamsdown was what was used historically, and it is no longer sold today. Thus, turkey down is a substitute.

The historical pattern calls for two yards… but, you need closer to four yards of down, unless you are making a childs hood. Don’t fuss over your stitch count, just measure your work. However, your stitch count will be closure to 200 than 100.

Cerise is red. You can make you hood whatever color(s) you would like. I recommend staying away from heathers (use solid colors) as that is a more modern yarn type. Also, keep in mind feathered down only came in white.

Cheers,

Jamiegoof

 

 

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New Arrivals

Hi Sis,
I wanted to share our homes new arrivals this autumn. A little over a month ago we adopted Gizmo, the pup! He is an adorable little mutt, that is sure to keep us on our toes. Gizmo is doing pretty well in his training, he knows come, sit, lay (by hand signal… he is still having a hard time with actual word), and is currently learning both heel and stay.  He still has accidents every once once in awhile, but he has started to bark at the door when he needs to go outside.  We are very happy about that progress!!!!

We also got twenty barred rock chicks! You know I’ve been wanting the old heritage line of barred rocks for about five to six years now, and just haven’t had any luck getting my orders through with breeders. Turned out the Old Shepard line of rocks had fertility problems, and my orders kept getting canceled. This time, I got chicks that are a mixture of Old Shepard and Duckworth. I can’t wait to see how they grow up! 

For some reason they are super quiet babies! I thought they were dead when they arrived at the post office. But, I opened the box and all twenty were healthy and hungry. I rarely hear a peep out of them, unless they are eating. They are also super calm, I never see them pecking one another!

Love,

Jamiegoof

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Handpainted Yarn

Hi Sis,

Yesterday, I tried hand painting yarns for the very first time! I had some stained old wool that was perfect for the project! 

Step 1: Soak the wool in water and vinegar… (I used 1 tablespoon citric acid per hank) for at least 30 minutes.

Step 2: Make your counter dye proof. I laid down a trash bag, and then put plastic wrap on top. The plastic wrap is important, as you are going to wrap up your yarn inside of it for the steaming part, so make sure you put the plastic wrap down.

Step 3: Start painting your yarn. There are no rules here, have fun!

Step 4: Roll up your yarn. By rolling it, you are treating it like a cinnamon roll. The plastic wrap will get rolled with the yarn. Make sure your ends and sides are sealed

Step 5: Steam your yarn for 45 – 60 minutes. I used a canning rack to steam mine.

Step 6: Dry

Step 7: Rewrap your hanks so they are picture perfect. lol

A perfect color combo for a cute little boy in our lives!

 

Love, 

Jamiegoof

 

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Dyeing Yarn

Hi Sis,

I haven’t done much blog posting because I’m super busy. Actually, I have tons of things I could blog about! LOL. Canning season has begun! Gizmo, our puppy is learning to go to the bathroom outside. Nate decided to sell Magic cards on eBay, and buy an air-soft snipper riffle. Plus, I have been dyeing yarn… lots and lots of yarn.

As you know, I have contacted Indian Silk suppliers several times in attempt to purchase yarn. The lady from whom I used to order silk was unreliable, so I knew I needed find somewhere else to get silk yarn. But, where?  

I found another supplier, but their colors were limited. Thus, I learned how to dye  yarn. But, I still wasn’t happy. That yarn was extremely difficult to dye! It didn’t want to absorb the colors, and I had to dye it multiple times to get a solid shade. The final straw, it was fuzzy! Delightfully soft, but the fuzz… I’ve never seen a fuzzy historical silk purse!

Finally, I spoke with the Indian company, and discovered how much money I had to throw down for them to want to work with me. LOL. Let’s just say they don’t want you to contact them for 10 hanks. 

The silk arrived almost immediately after I purchased it, and I got busy dyeing. I selected 20 colors to offer in my store… but, I am already discovering some that I don’t like, or ones that I want to add to my color pool because the colors I ordered didn’t turn out the way I expected.

I have been learning so much about dyeing yarn over the past two days. I now know how to look at the pot and see if it needs more dye before the batch is finished, how to even out colors without the long process of painting, when I need more acid, how to dye properly to prevent bleeding (yep, no bleeding in any of these new yarns) and if a dye is just bad. Sorry, but my Emerald green is a bad batch of dye! It just will not dissolve properly and creates blotches of color. I am definitely going to order the Darhma Emerald next time instead of Jacquard. 

This is just some of the colors! lol The entire front porch has yarn hanging off it.

Electric Voilet and Fawn

Vermillion (not raspberry… but I still love the color!)

Sometimes you just need some SCREAMING RED

Love,

Jamiegoof

 

 

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Temperature Afghan – August

Hi Sis,

I just completed my very first month, working on my temperature Afghan. I really like the Cheveron. This August was very cool, we didn’t get out of the 90’s!

The color’s didn’t come out that well in my photograph. It is actually mostly orange, not red. lol

Love,

Jamiegoof

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Pineapple Silk Purse

Dear Sis,

I’ve finally made a pineapple purse, one of the wackiest vintage purses around! Pineapple’s were a luxury item during the Victorian period. In fact, families would even rent pineapples to use as center pieces when hosting an elegant dinner party. Pineapple purses patterns (also known as porcupine purses) were used from about 1810 – 1890’s, which is quite an impressive span. 

There are a few pineapple purse patterns available on the web for free. They are all about the same, as the purse is actually the same type of stitch over and over again. And believe it or not, the pattern is actually much simpler then it looks!

Here is a modern version of the pineapple purse from Franklin Habit, and here is an historical version of the pineapple purse from 1841. Both patterns are great, but not quite what I was looking for. The modern pattern produces a larger pineapple purse, that is approximately 12 inches high. Which, if you study period purses, you know that these tiny little bags were essentially coin purses about the size of one’s hand. I also didn’t want to make the historical version, because who really wants to knit with size 00000 needles and silk sewing thread? Not me. Sorry, I love history, but I have some limits. lol

So, I ended up making something in-between. Before, I get into the pattern, I figured I would share some pretty historical photos of pineapple purses first! Pictures are from the collection of The Kyoto Costume Institute.

Okay, now on to the pattern

Pineapple Purse Pattern

Supplies I used: 25 grams Green and Gold Silk Lace Yarn, and about 5 – 10 grams of size 11/0 gold galvanized glass seed beads. 

Needles: 4 Size 000 double points (If you want to use size 00 or size 0 that should work just fine, your purse will just be a tad bit larger. If using size 0 needles, you may want to cast on 112 stitches instead.) I do use a crochet hook size 8 for the tassel. If you don’t crochet, you can knit your tassel, but it will not be as strong.

Difficulty: Medium

Let’s Start! First, thread half of your beads on to the green yarn, and the other half onto the gold.

Leaves: With green yarn cast on 128 stitches. If you are a glutton for suffering, or want to make your purse the historical way with beads, be sure to cast a bead on with each stitch. I’m going to be honest, casting on the beads and the first row of knitting are the hardest thing about making this purse, the rest is pretty easy.

Row 1: knit

Row 2: k6, yo, 1, yo, k6, sl1-k2tog-psso (pass the slipped stitch over the k2tog. This is a 2 stitch decrease) repeat around

Now repeat the above pattern until you have 1.75 inches. Keep in mind you are increasing and decreasing stitches, so the stitches on your needles are going to move. Meaning your next row you may have k5, yo, k1, yo, k6, sl-k2tog-psso, k1, or some other number. But, you will always… always have 6 stitches between the 2 stitch increase (yo, k1, yo) and the two stitch decrease (sl-k2tog-psso).

 

My leaves measure 1.75 inches from the base of my needle to the highest point.

Cut off green yarn and attach gold. 

Set up: Knit one row.

Now, you are going to invert your work, yep that is right. You are going to be working on the wrong side of your pineapple! Why, you may ask? This is because the leaves are done with the knit side of your work facing the right side, and the yellow part is done with the purl side of you work facing. Instead of trying to knit the rest of your purse in purl only, it is often easier to just invert the work, and knit it instead.

Row 1: Instead of join in the round, you are actually going to work the other direction. This will create a tiny hole in your purse, that you can sew up later during the finishing step. *K6, sk1-k2tog-psso, K6, yo, k1, yo* repeat from * to * till end.

Row 2: *K5, sl1-k2tog-psso, K6, yo, k1, yo, k1* repeat from * to * around.

Row 3: *K4, sl1-k2tog-psso, K6, yo, k1, yo, k2* repeat from * to* around.

Rows 4 – 6: Notice the above repetition. Once again the stitches are moving on your needle, but there is always 6 stitches between the decrease and increase. by, the time you finish the sixth row, you will have 1 stitch before the decrease, and five stitches at the very end of your row.

Row 7: Knit plainly, without any increase or decrease. If beading, put your bead in the center of the increase row below. (Yo, k1, yo) you will be adding the bead to the k1 location, which is the center of the increases.

It is a little hard to see, but there is a bead in the center of the previous rows increase.

Row 8 – 9: knit plainly.

Row 10: *K1, yo, k1, yo, k6, sl1-k2tog-pss0, k5* repeat from * to* around. Essentially, you are swapping the location of the increases and decreases. Your increase will not be dead center in the middle of your previous decreases, and vice versa. This creates the uneven pineapple look.

Row 11: *K2, yo, k1 yo, k6, sl1-k2tog-psso, k4* repeat from * to * around. 

Row 12 – 15: Continue in pattern. Keep in mind that your increases and decreases will cause your counting to move across your work, but k6 will always be between your increase and decrease. By the end of row 15, you will have k6, yo, k1, yo, k6, sl1-kwtog-psso, as your round.

Row 16: Knit plainly with a bead in the center of the previous rows increase.

Row 17 – 18: Knit

You will repeat rows 1 – 18 until you the gold section is about 2.75 – 3 inches long. I repeated the rows 1 1/5 times more, so that I had five points to the length of my purse.

When turned right side out, you can see the 5 points on the way down. My work measured about 2.75 inches.

Bottom: Cut off gold and attach green. Invert your work so that the right side is facing.

Row 1: Knit across the row.

Row 2: Invert your work so that the wrong side is facing again. Do not work in the round, turn and continue to knit. How you start this row will vary, depending on were you left off above. You are following the leaf pattern that was on the very top of the purse, but you are staggering it from the row of pineapple juts above. Meaning, your increase will be above your decrease, and vise versa.

For me: I did the following

*k1, yo, k1, yo, k6, sl1-k2tog with bead-psso, k5* repeat from * to *.

If you did another row of pineapple then I did, you may have to start this way instead.

*k6, sl1-k2tog with bead-psso, k6, yo, k1, k1* repeat from * to *.

Tip: I did not try to yank the bead through two stitches. Before, I k2tog I slid down a bead to my work, then I knit two together, and passed my slipped stitch over.

Slip stitch, slide bead to work. Then, knit two together, and pass slipped stitch over.

Rows 3 – 7: Continue in pattern with a bead in each row until you have six rows of beads.

Rows 8 – 13: Continue in pattern, with beads, only this time do not do the yo. This will decrease each row by 16 stitches. When you have completed you will have 32 stitches left and 12 rows of beads.

Row 14: *K2tog* round (16 stitches total)

Row 15: *K1, k2tog* round 

Row 16: Decrease so that you have 9 stitches total

Row 17 -20: Knit

Row 21: Decrease to 6 stitches

Graft off

Weave in all your tails through the top of the stitches on the wrong side of you work. 

Drawl-string Time

Tassels: With yellow silk and crochet hook size 1.5 MM chain 8.

Row 1: sc in second chain, and single crochet across. (7 stitches total)

Row 2 – 5: chain 1, turn, sc across. Do this until you have 1/2 inch of work… approximately 5 rows.

Row 6: ch1, sc in first stitch, *slide two inches of beads forward to the work, sc in next stitch* repeat till last stitch, sc. Cut off leaving long tail for sewing.

Crocheting a loop of beads. Don’t worry about getting everything snug, right away. Pull in the loop, then tighten, and finish the rest of your sc.

Now cut 6 green silk pieces to be 56 inches long.

Take three and thread them through a needle. Weave them through the underside of your work.  Then thread, the other side of the same thread, and weave it up through the tassel again. This will attach your drawstring to your tassel.

Nice side of the tassel. Notice that I only drew the green thread through the underside/ugly side.

Ugly side were the string shows.

 

Then, roll your tassel and sew it together with the long tail of gold you cut.

Pinching and sewing together the rolled crochet tassel.

All done!

Now, separate your tassel into two sets of three strands. Braid each group. Then, weave your braids through the top of the purse were the green and gold join.

And now the pineapple purse is complete!

Happy Knitting,

Jamie

copywright2017 – this pattern is for personal use only. This pattern is not to be sold or redistributed.

 

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