Mending Granny Bob’s Doily

Dear Sis,

During our Nashville visit, Granny and I stumbled upon a doily in need of mending that Granny Bob made some time ago. I offered to repair it:)

To make repairs easier, I thought I’d take time to make a pattern for myself. 

Granny Bob’s Doily


Pattern Notes

  • use ch 3 as first tr throughout
  • pattern describes a single motif, repeat 8 times and sl st to join at the end of each round

Stitch Notes

  • treble double increase (trd inc) – tr 3 in a single stitch from the previous round (remember tr begins with 2 yo)
  • treble increase (tr inc) – tr 2 in a single stitch from the previous round
  • open treble increase (open tr inc) – tr, ch 4, tr, in a single stitch from the previous round
  • double treble increase (dtr inc) – dtr 2 in a single stitch from the previous round (remember dtr begins with 3 yo)

Ch 5, join with a sl st to form a round.

Round 1: tr. 1 ch spacer. (1)

Round 2: trd inc. 2 ch spacer. (3)

Round 3: tr inc, tr, tr inc. 3 ch spacer. (5)

Round 4: tr inc, tr 3, tr inc. 3 ch spacer. (7)

Round 5: tr inc, tr 5, tr inc. 3 ch spacer. (9)

Round 6: tr inc, tr 7, tr inc. 3 ch spacer. (11)

Round 7: tr inc, tr 4, tr inc, tr 4, tr inc. 3 ch spacer. (14)

Round 8: tr 7, ch 2, tr 7. 3 ch spacer.

Round 9 & 10: tr 7, ch 8, tr 7. 3 ch spacer.

Round 11: tr 7, ch 5, sc around 8th ch of Rounds 9 & 10, ch 5, tr 7. 3 ch spacer.

Round 12: tr 7, ch 14, tr 7. 3 ch spacer.

Round 13: tr 7, ch 5, sc in 5th ch of Round 12, ch 6, sc in 10th ch of Round 12, ch 5, tr 7. 3 ch spacer.

Round 14: tr 6, ch 5, tr 14 in 6ch of Round 13, ch 5, skipping first tr of Round 13, tr 6. 3 ch spacer.

Round 15: tr 5, ch 5, (tr 1, ch 1) 13x, tr, ch 5, skipping first tr of Round 14, tr 5. 3 ch spacer.

Round 16: tr 4, ch 5, sc in 1ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 1ch space) 12x, ch 5, skipping first tr of Round 15, tr 4. 3 ch spacer.

Round 17: tr 4, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 11x, ch 5, tr 4. 3 ch spacer. 

Round 18: tr 4, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 10x, ch 5, tr 4. 3 ch spacer.

Round 19: tr 4, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 9x, ch 5, tr 4. 7 ch spacer.

Round 20: tr 4, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 8x, ch 5, tr 4. To begin spacer motif, ch 3, trd inc in 4th ch of Round 19, ch 3.

Round 21: tr 4, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 7x, ch 5, tr 4. For spacer motif, ch 3, tr, open tr inc, tr, ch 3.

Round 22: tr 4, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 6x, ch 5, tr 4. For spacer motif, ch 3, tr inc, tr, ch 3, sc in 4ch of Round 21, ch 3, tr, tr inc, ch 3.

Round 23: tr 3, tr inc, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 5x, ch 5, tr inc, tr 3. For spacer motif, ch 3, tr inc, tr 2, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of the first 3ch space, sc, and 1st ch of second 3ch space of Round 22, ch 3, tr 2, tr inc, ch 3.

Round 24: tr 4, tr inc, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 4x, ch 5, tr inc, tr 4. For spacer motif, ch 3, tr inc, tr 3, ch 8, sc 3, ch 8, tr 3, tr inc, ch 3.

Round 25: tr 5, tr inc, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 3x, ch 5, tr inc, tr 5. For spacer motif, ch 3, tr 4, tr inc, ch 3, sc around first 8ch, ch 7, sc around second 8ch, ch 3, tr 4, tr inc, ch 3.

Round 26: tr 6, tr inc, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, (ch 3, sc in next 3ch space) 2x, ch 5, tr inc, tr 6. For spacer motif, ch 3, tr inc, tr 5, ch 3, sc in third ch of first 3ch space, sc, sc in first ch of 7ch, ch 3, trd inc in fourth ch of 7ch, ch 3, sc in third ch of third 3ch space, sc, sc in first ch of fourth 3ch space of Round 25, ch 3, tr 5, tr inc, ch 3.

Round 27: tr 4, ch 2, tr 4, ch 5, sc in 3ch space, ch 3, sc in next 3ch space, ch 5, tr 4, ch 2, tr 4. For spacer motif, ch 3, tr inc, tr 5, tr inc, ch 6, trd inc, tr inc, trd inc, ch 6, tr inc, tr 5, tr inc, ch 3.

Round 28: tr inc, tr 3, ch 7, tr 3, tr inc, ch 5, sc in 3 ch space, ch 5, tr inc, tr 3, ch 7, tr 3, tr inc. For spacer motif, ch 3, tr 9, tr 10 in first 6ch space, tr 8, tr 10 in second 6ch space of Round 27, tr 9, ch 3.

Round 29: dtr 2, tr 11, dtr 2 all in first 8ch space, sc in last st, sc in first st, dtr 2, tr 11, dtr 2 all in second 8ch space of Round 28. For spacer motif, sc 4 in ch3 space, dtr inc 5 beginning in fourth st, dtr 5, tr inc 5, sc 4 starting in third st and leaves last two st vacant, tr inc 5, dtr 5, dtr inc 5, skipping last 4 sts, sc 4 in ch 3 space.

Happy Crochet!




Week Five – Pence Jug Knit Along

Wow, it is hard to believe that it is the final week of the pence jug knit along! This week, we are adding the handle and rings to our pence jugs, as well as weaving in the ties.

Week Four

New things to learn

  • Picking up stitches with a Crochet Hook Video

From the very top of your pence jug, pick up five stitches with a crochet hook or knitting needle. I like to pick my stitches up near the joining of the jug, right were I joined my stitches in the round. This way if you have a slight jog in your stitches, you can use the handle to hide it.

If any of your stitches loosen, take the time to make sure they are taunt before you start knitting. Here the very last stitch of my row needed tightened.

Row 1: k1 with bead, k3, k1 with bead

Row 2 & 4: purl

Row 3: k2, k1 with bead, knit 2

Repeat Rows 1 – 4 until your handle is the length you desire. (I prefer make mine four inches long)

Understanding Right Side & Wrong Side

This is the right side of your pence jug handle. As you can see the beads and knit side of your work, are facing the outside of the jug, when the handle is folded down.

This is the wrong side of your handle. If you hold it straight up from your jug and fold it forward, you will see the purl side of your work.

Once your handle is the desired length, bind off. Leave a tail long enough to sew and weave the ends in. Slide on your ring and thread your sewing needle.
Attach your handle just above the second row of beads. Tie your knot on the inside of your work and weave your tail there too. Finish your work by weaving in all your tails.

Weave tails through the underside of your work. This will make it so you can not see your tails on the outside of your pretty jug.

Yay! You have completed your pence jug! I can’t want to see the pretty pictures of your jugs on Raverly and Facebook!

Best wishes,

Jamie Quick

copywright2017 – this pattern is for personal use only. This pattern is not to be sold or redistributed.


Pence Jug Knit Along

Pence Jug Knit Along

Starts: Sunday July 9th

Step by step portions of the pattern will be posted at the beginning of each week. These portions will include photographs, and other other helpful directions. This is a social event, so if you ever have questions, please ask! Wanna chat, and share pictures… please do! And if you want to join, just let me know! The knit along directions will take five weeks.

Material List: 

  1. Size 00 & 0 Double Point Knitting Needles or Circular Needles (You will need both sizes of needles)
  2. 15 grams of size 11/0 galvanized glass beads, or if you are lucky enough to find them… you can use antique steel cut french beads
  3. 25 grams of silk lace yarn (size 0 or 2/20) or beading thread
  4. Stainless Steel Blank Ring size 9 – 11

Where to get all these supplies? I carry everything you need to make a pence jug, and can thread your beads onto your silk for you, in my Etsy Store

If you are going to thread the beads onto your own, it will take about two hours to do by hand. A bead spinner will help expedite the process. Here is the bead spinner I use.

The Pattern

Week One

Week Two 

Week Three

Week Four

Week Five

The History of the Pattern

The Pence jug is a very old style of miser purse. The pattern we will be working on, was developed by studying an original in the Smithsonian Institution that is dated 1830 – 1860.  It is a very small purse, that only measured 4 inches tall, by 2 ” wide. 


A few more fun photos of pence jugs I have made


I look forward to working on this project with everyone, and seeing all your pretty pence jugs! Please email, or comment on my blog or facebook with any questions! Don’t have time to make a pence jug, you can order one custom made to suit your preference from my Etsy store!


~ Jamie Quick


1861 Crochet Purse (Historic Pattern for Modern Crocheter)

Dear Sis, thanks so much for helping me get this pattern ready! 🙂

Peterson’s Crochet Silk Purse, 1861

Skill Level: Easy. 

25 Grams Silk Yarn
1.8 – 1.9 MM crochet hook.
Embroidery Needle
3″ cardboard or plastic for tassel making
Sewing thread and needle

Size: Without tassels, is approximately 4.5 – 5 inches long and 3.5 inches wide.

Pattern Error: Please note that the stitch count is incorrect at row 7 & 8. You will have 88 dc instead of the 66 stitches that you will have during the 3dc ch1 rows.

Your crocheting is complete! Now, time for tassels and cords.

Bottom Tassels: Watch a Youtube Video on How to Make Tassels and Practice! Seriously, if you have never made tassels before, don’t dig into your silk yet. Make tassels with cotton or wool yarn first.

My tassels are made with a 3″ wide Quilting Ruler, and my silk is wrapped around it 45 times. I do a simple loop knot twice.Once, I have three tassels, I tie the three tassels together. Drawl the yarn up through the bottom hole in the purse, tie knots to secure, and weave the yarn through my work (only on the inside, don’t weave it through, so that it shows on both sides of your work) and cut off the extra string.

Tassels and Cords: Cords can be twisted or braided. I braid my cords.  My cords are simply the strings that tie off the top of the tassel. They are 58 inches long and folded in half… so you will have six strings per group of tassels. I then knot all six strings together about 3/4 of an inch above the tassels, separate strings into two groups, and braid.  When the cords are made. I fold the purse and half and weave the cords from one tassel in and out of row 30… both in different directions, till they meet in the center. Then, I decide how long I want my cords to be, when my purse is fully opened, and sew the strings down to the inside of the purse. Repeat on the other side, so that you have a drawstring opening and closure.

A Look into the Historical Pattern

This is what was featured in Peterson’s Magazine, in 1861. Like most patterns of the time, accuracy wasn’t really a thing. If you look closely at this pattern, you will discover it isn’t actually mathematically correct. Ladies looked at the directions, pictures, and made something work.  Which, is exactly what I did. The pattern below, is my adaptation of the above pattern. What did I change?

  • I closed the bottom to the purse. This was a preference of mine. If you want an open bottom, go for it! If you keep the same number of stitches, as I have in each round, your purse will be the same shape and size.
  • I didn’t follow the bottom diagram. The bottom diagram shows 1dc in the chain one space, and a dc in each stitch next to the chain. I choose to do 3dc in each ch1 space. Why? Because, it creates a prettier hole. In fact, when I followed the directions, it didn’t give me a pretty gap at all.
  • I didn’t add as much frill to the top. 

Fun Pictures of the Finished Projects!

Enjoy the pattern! Please comment or email me with any questions, pattern notes, or success stories. For those who prefer it, I sell these purses ready made and custom made in my Etsy shop.

copywright2017 – this pattern is for personal use only. This pattern is not to be sold or redistributed.


Vintage Butterfly Slippers

Hey Sis,

My recent Pugly Pink Slippers brought about another creation. I was looking online for more inspiration, as I figured I needed another two pairs of slippers so I could wash them, and I found these pretty vintage slippers.


So, I set to work. I ended up using the basic pattern from MINNI SLIPPERS again. This time however, I changed it a bit.

Pattern for Butterfly slippers

Supplies: H & D Hooks, and some scrap worsted weight yarn

American Sizes: Ladies 6, (7), [8]

Row 1: Create a slip knot. Ch2 is considered your first hdc now and throughout the pattern. Stop when you have 9 hdc (11 hdc) or [13 hdc)

Row 2: 2 hdc in each stitch. Total = 18 hdc, (22 hdc) [26 hdc]

Row 3: Add hdc evenly around till you have 28 hdc, 32 hdc, 34 hdc. If you think it needs to be wider for your foot, go ahead and add more stitches, but make sure the stitch count is even. If you think it needs to be narrower, go ahead and take some out, and make sure it is even. Remember… these will stretch, so make sure it fits snuggly right now.

Row 4 – 9 (10) [11] hdc in the round without adding any stitches.

Row 10 (11) [12] hdc in next 20 stitches (22) [24]

Row 11+ (12+) [13+] turn, hdc in the following 20 stitches. Repeat till a good length for your foot. For me, that was 25 rows. Remember… these will stretch a lot.

Finish by slip stitching back seam together.


Starting in back of slipper do a 1 double, 2 triple, 1 double crochet shell. Skip one row of hdc, and do a single crochet. Skip 1 row of hdc, and do shell. If you want a more elastic band, skip two rows between the shells. Go around, and make sure sides are even.


With size D hook, chain 7. Slip stitch into the first chain to make a loop.

Row 1: Ch3 counts as first dc now and throughout pattern. 2 dc, ch3, *3dc, ch3* repeat from * to * till you have eight chain 3 loops.

Row 2: In first loop *sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dc, hdc, sc* repeat in all loops. Tie off

Fold Butterfly in half, and create a chain. Tie chain around butterfly and leave the ties hanging off as antennas.  Sew onto slippers.img_0324 img_0317





Bedroom Set

Hey Sis,

Nate and I are feeling super spoiled right now. For our wedding gift, Nate’s mother and stepfather bought us a bedroom furniture set, complete with a bed frame and headboard, two Nightstands and dresser for each of us! Yep, we are very spoiled!

Last weekend, all four of us went furniture shopping together. We got into the car and drove for about an hour to Wayside furniture store, and browsed. Just when I thought we finished and saw everything in the store, the sales assistant said, “would you like to see the next building?”… twice! The place was huge, and I Nate and I were a bit overwhelmed with choices. We knew what we didn’t want. No cushioned fabric headboard, no foot board to kick in our sleep, nothing that would try to kill our toes if we cut a tight corner around the bed, and something in the cherry color. Yes, Nate and I both liked a deeper cherry. 

After we left Wayside, we took a few photos of the ones we liked the most. And decided to drive down to Andreas. Andreas was a bit further away, and we were getting very hungry. So, we stopped at an Amish restaurant. The line was huge. Nate’s step father and I eyed the line thinking… is there anything else nearby? But, the food was very good! Nate got a pie sampler platter and had fun tasting peanut butter, cherry and apple pie. He couldn’t finish, and I told him as his life helper, I would take care of the rest. 🙂

We went through all the pictures and measurements, and determined we had a tie. We liked one set from Andreas, and one from Wayside. Eeep. How did we decide? Well, we found out the set from Wayside was made out of real cherry wood instead of particle board. Problem solved, we were ordering that one. Boy are we glad we did, it is  beautiful!

img_0151 img_0150 img_0149

I know you have got your eyes on our bright pink carpet! Because Nate and I are super sweet… if you really want it, we would be happy to give it to you? 😉 We are getting rid of that eyesore (actually the whole room used to be painted pink with a rose wallpaper border) after we potty train our future puppy!

With new pretty Nightstands, the last thing I wanted to do was ruin the finishing.  And because Nate and I both like to have water nearby, I made some coasters. I wanted them to match the bedroom comforter set, as well as look great on the cherry wood.  So, I went through that cotton yarn stash that you left me. (You know sis, I have practically every color, but cream and white in there hehehe)


The Pattern 


Up to 4 colors of cotton worsted yarn

G sized hook


Chain 4, slip stitch into first chain to create a loop.

Row 1: Chain 2 (counts as first dc), dc 12 times in loop, slip stich to top of chain 2. Cut off color. (Total 13 stitches)

Row 2: Chain 1 (counts as first sc) sc in stitch, 2sc in every stitch around. Slip stitch to top of chain. Cut off color. (Total 26 sc stitches)

Row 3: Chain 1 (counts as first hdc) dc in stitch, *1 hdc, 2 hdc* repeat from * to * until complete.  Slip stitch to top of chain. (Total 40 hdc)

Row 4: Chain 1(counts as first slip stitch) *1hdc, dc and tr in same stitch, tr and dc in next stitch, hdc, slip stitch* repeat from * to * until around. Slip into chain 1 to close round. You will have 8 petals. Cut off color.

Row 5: Start row on a slip stitch that is between the petals of the previous row. Ch1, (counts as first slip stitch) *sc, hdc, hdc and dc in same stitch, dc and hdc in next stitch, hdc, sc, slip stitch*repeat from * to * until around. Slip into ch1 to close round. You will have 8 petals. Cut of color.

Weave in tails and you are done!!



Christmas Mice

Dear Sis,

These little mice will make perfect gifts for our school friends at this years’ classroom Christmas parties.


These mice are still tail-less because candy canes aren’t available in store just yet! The pattern for these little guys can be found: here.

Remember to enlarge the pattern to 150% before printing!


I used fabric paint for noses and eyes instead of little circles of felt.

Time saver for sure!





What’s Cookin’ Good Lookin’?


Dear Sis,

I hope you and Nate will enjoy this chicken inspired cooking set! I can’t wait for you to open it at your Bridal Shower in July 2016.

Chicken Oven Mits

Oven Mits

tutorial found here: WonderUnder

Crochet Chicken Hot Pad Set

Chicken Pot Holder

pattern found here: ravelry

Pattern Notes: My Hot Pads are only a single thickness,

so I skipped all the steps related the second body and binding the two layers together.

Chicken Pot Holders

with Hot Pad Trio

Pot Holder Trio


All the Hot Pads

Chicken Timer

I hope you like it!