Homemade Peppermint Yogurt Soap

Dear Sis,

This recipe was originally written in 2015 as three individual posts because the process is done over a span of several days. You pointed out that it would be easier for our visitors to have all the information in one place, so here goes:)

PART ONE

Supplies

Scale
Ice Cube Tray
Glass Liquid Measuring Cups
2 High Side Stainless Bowls or Pots
2 Long Handle Stainless or Plastic Spoons, preferable slotted
Digital Insta-Read Waterproof Thermometer
Immersion Blender
Rubber Spatula
Square Silicone Pan or Soaps Molds
Plastic Dishpan & Vinegar
pH testing strips

Ingredients

4.5 oz distilled water
4.5 oz whole milk yogurt
9 oz coconut oil
21 oz olive oil
4.1 oz bead lye (sodium hydroxide)
2 t peppermint oil

Safety

Hair Tied Back
Onion Googles
Long Sleeve Top
Rubber Gloves
Long Pants or Skirt
Apron
Socks & Closed Toe Shoes

Yogurt Soap Preparation

Measure distilled water and whole milk yogurt.
Whisk together water and yogurt.
Pour into ice cube tray.
Freeze.

PART TWO

Step One – Measure Fats

Place the 21 oz olive oil in the largest of the 2 High Sided Stainless bowls or pots.

Measure 9 oz coconut oil in a microwave safe dish. Microwave until melted.

Step Two – Work Spaces

Lye Station

Place frozen yogurt/water cubes in the smaller of the 2 High Sided Stainless bowls or pots. Set out a thermometer, spoon, contained lye, and the googles, gloves, and apron.

Blending Station

Set out measured fats, immersion blender, spatula, and mold.

Neutralizing Station

Fill dishpan with warm water. Add a few splashes of vinegar.

Vinegar water solution neutralized lye. Use this water solution to wipe down surface and tool that may have come in contact with lye.

Step Three – Measure Lye

Take care to pull back hair, dress in long sleeves, pants or a long skirt, with socks and closed-toe shoes, and put on apron, googles, and gloves.

Gently spoon bead lye into dish to measure 4.1 oz.

Step Four – Dissolve Lye

In a well ventilated area, pour lye into frozen yogurt cubes.

Stir continuously. Begin measuring temperature when cubes are nearly thawed.

Continue stirring continuously, until temperature plateaus. It may take up to five minutes. Don’t jump the gun on this step, for as long as the temperature is rising, the lye is still dissolving. If you proceed too soon, there will be undissolved lye in your soap! You’re pH test will flop for sure. My batch plateaued at 70.3 degrees for a full minute and a half before I went on to the next step.

Step Five – Saponification

Saponification is the chemical process which occurs between the lye (base) and fats (acids), that results in soap.

Sadly, I wasn’t able to get photos for this step. I ran out of hands:( …but I’ll give more written details to compensate.

Combining Fats & Dissolved Lye

Pour melted coconut oil into olive oil. (All fats should now be in the larger of the 2 High Sided Stainless bowls or pots.) Pour dissolve lye into fats. Stir by hand a bit. Then add 2 t peppermint oil, if using.

Blending

Trade spoon for an immersion blender. Place the thermometer in the mixture again. As you blend the oil will loose its translucent quality. You may notice an ammonia like odor as you work. This odor is normal and harmless as long as you are working in a well ventilated area. The mixture will thicken, lighten in color, and become opaque. A low powered immersion blender’s motor will even change pitch as the mixture thickens. The thermometer will show another temperature spike as these changes occur, four degrees or so.

Pour into Mold

Pour saponified mixture into mold(s). Using a spatula to scrape the bowl or pot clean.

Place the molds in the refrigerator for 3 hours. Then remove to room temperature. The soap should be solid in about 12 hours.

Step Six – Clean up

Leave the goggles, gloves, and upon on until clean up is complete.

All items that have lye or soap mixture on them, should be rubbed down with dish soap directly before rinsing well with hot water.
Wipe down all work surfaces with vinegar solution.
Wash gloves in hot soapy water, dip in vinegar solution, and towel dry hands before removing safely gear.

STEP THREE

pH Testing

Moisten soaps surface with distilled water. Rub a pH test strip into the damp paste.

Safe soap is in the range of 7 to 10.

For a pH of 11 or 12, let soap sit a few more days and test again.

For readings above 12, only handle soap with gloves. Although pH will decrease over time, a pH of 12 or higher should be discarded.

Cutting

I prefer a chefs knife, but a large pizza cutter or a cheese wire are also tools practical for cutting soap into bars. I cut my square mold 3×3, for a total of 9 bars.

Curing

Curing means simply allowing the soap to dry out a spell. Place on a rack to increase air circulation in a location free of excessive humidity. Stand 1 month before using.

There is no harm in using uncured soap, it just gets gummy and disappears very quickly. It is well worth the wait!

Happy Soap Making!

Love,

Godey’s 1861 Fancy Belt Pattern

Hi Sis,

You gave me your old belt, the one I made you a few years back. Then, I got an idea! I was gonna have some fun!

Enter fancy belt, from Godey’s 1861.

Here is how it turned out!

I planned to sell it, but now I’m not sure. 😂 It doesn’t look bad with my crazy bold kelly green silk dress. So, I may just keep it.

Materials

Silk Taffeta
Interfacing
1 Inch velvet
Soutache braid 3 mm wide
Buckle – You can find buckles from Ensembles from the Past and Button Barron

Step 1: Measure waist. Add 1 inch seam allowance, and 1 -2 inches for overlapping the back. Take this measurement and drawl it onto your silk tafffeta. If you want a two inch belt, cut it five inches wide.

Step 2: I interfaced my belt for extra stability, but this is optional.

Step 3: Sew one side of the belt (1/2 seam allowance), and down the main length. Do not sew other end.

Step 4: Trim corners at end for a good fold/tip.

Step 5: Invert. Iron, and use a butter knife to help give you a nice crisp edge along the seam.

Step 6: Fold in other end, and sew.

Step 7: Take one inch velvet, and sew it on 1/2 of an inch from bottom.

Step 8: Find center of belt, and put on buckle. Chalk the lines of your buckle, so that you know where to not have the braid loops getting in the way. Many period belts closed on the side.

Step 9: Mark where your braid loops will take pace, with a simple chalk line. You do not need to trace anything. Just mark the distance apart that you desire your loops, and stagger the top and bottom.

Step 10: Sew on braid.

Step 11: You can add a closure, such as a hook and eye. Or you can use a silk pin or two. I pin my belts on, and yes that is a period, and always a great fit!

Enjoy your belt!

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Fish Sleep Sack

Dear Sis,

All your recent visit have spurred a desire for me to make animal sleep sacks for Eve, Charlotte, and Grant like I did for William long ago (Owl Sleep Sack). Eve has been the floor sleeping kid, so I made her’s first:)

Materials

2 yards fleece (outer fabric)
5 1/2 yards broadcloth (lining and pillow sham)
1 1/2 yards quilting cotton (tail, fins, and eye)
double sided fusible interfacing, such as WonderUnder
2 (24 inch) metal zippers (closure)
tissue paper and clear tape (pattern making)

Assembly

Draft your tail, fins, and eye patterns onto tissue or pattern paper. The pattern photos below are on a 1 inch grid to help you scale the pattern.

Fold 1 1/2 yards printed quilting cotton in half and arrange tail (cut 2 on fold) and fins for cutting. Remember to add 1/2 inch seam allowance around curved portions of tail and fins.
Place tail panels right sides together and sew curved areas with a 1/2 inch seam allowance, leaving straight section at the base of the tail open. Clip curves as needed, turn and press. Repeat with fins.
Cut 4 x 4 inch square from remnant printed quilting cotton and double sided fusible interfacing. Press with a hot iron to fuse both squares together. Trace eye pattern onto interfacing side and cut along the tracing line, no additional seam allowance is needed.

Trim bulky salvage edge from fleece. Fold lengthwise and cut on the fold to create a front and back panels.
Shaping top and bottom edges of fleece panels by centering tail at the bottom edge of the fleece panels. Chalk mark the flat space that is required at the bottom to attach the tail. Add curve to the top and bottom edge as desired with chalk and cut when pleased with the shape. Fold contoured bottom edge up until it meets the top edge of the fleece panels. Cut to match bottom shaping. Unfold. Working with just the top edge, chalk the opened mouth into the straight uncut area between the top and bottom curves. When pleased with the shape, cut the mouth opening.
Remove the bolt fold from the broadcloth and fold in the other direction so that fabric is open to its full width. Lay fleece panels at the bottom from the folded edge upward and a standard pillowcase above it. Cut lining to match the fleece panels. Cut pillowcase panels with a 1/2 inch seam allowance around the three seamed edges and an additional 2 1/2 inches at open edge for a rolled hem.

Lay a single layer of fleece out flat. Arrange and pin tail, fins, and eye in place. Sew on tail and fins using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Note: the front pectoral fin is not along the edge, so it will need to folded downward and topstitched to finish the raw edge.
Fuse the eye in place with a hot iron. Using a dense zigzag stitch or the satin stitch, sew around the eye to finish the raw edge.
Pin tail and fins away from the edges of the fleece folding as needed. Place second fleece panel right side down over the first panel. Leaving the first 24 inches open on both side seams, stitch around using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Repeat with lining.
With fleece layer right side out and lining inside out. Place fleece inside lining and sew around unfinished edges with a 1/2 inch seam allowance leaving an 8 inch opening for turning. Turn and get lining situation inside fleece layer. Top stitch around opening on the front and back as close to the edge as possible turning the open 8 inches inward and stitching it closed as well.

Switch to a zipper foot and install a zipper along the top and bottom curved edges.
For pillowcase, place panels right sides together and stitch along three edges using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Clip corners and turn right side out.
On open side, fold raw edge under 1/2 inch and make a 2 inch rolled hem and secure with machine sewing.

Enjoy your creation!

Love,

P.S. Two more designs are in my sewing queue… a yellow cat for Charlotte and a pink pig for Grant.

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1860s Quilted Checker Board

Dear Sis,

In recent months, I made a cloth doll for Charlotte to take reenacting. I made a mental note that I wanted to make a period toy for William too, but I wasn’t sure just what it would be.

Last weekend, while I was backing Evelyn and Grant’s cross-stitched baby quilts from Great Grandma Cooper and whipping up a world map wall quilt for Grant’s new big boy room, I had to stop in the middle of my sewing projects to play checkers with William.

He is always looking for someone who will join him for a checker match. During our game, we hatched an idea. Wouldn’t it be neat it to make a quilted checker board?!

1860s Quilted Checker Board

Storage Bag Dimensions (10 x 14 inches)

Board Dimensions (19 inch square)

Materials

3/4 yard reproduction quilting calico (for backing and storage bags)
1/3 yard RED reproduction quilting calico (for red squares and boarder)
1/3 yard BLACK reproduction quilting calico (for black squares)
24 inch square of cotton batting
cotton thread to match backing fabric
24 (1 1/2″ x 1/8″) wooden disks
black, gold, and red acrylic paint
2 yards cotton cord

Cutting

Black Squares – 32 (2 3/4 inch) squares
Red Boarder – 2 (1.5 inch) strips from the cut edge, cut on the fold to make 4 strips
Red Squares – 32 (2 3/4 inch) squares
Backing – Cut along fold line, set aside one piece for backing, use other half to cut storage bags.
Checker Bag – 7×16 inch rectangle
Storage Bag – 17×22 inch rectangle

Piecing

Note: I used a sewing machine for piecing the checker board, but you may piece it by hand if you wish. Regardless, use small stitching and 1/4 inch seam allowances. Press all seams open before moving on to another step.

Seam Placement One: Place a red (R) and black (B) square together, right sides facing. Stitch together. Repeat with remaining 31 pairs.

Seam Placement Two: Place a R/B rectangle face up. Place a B/R rectangle face down on top of it. Stitch together. Repeat with remaining 15 pairs.

Seam Placement Three: Place a R/B/R/B rectangle face up. Place a B/R/B/R rectangle face down on top of it. Stitch together. Repeat with remaining 7 pairs.

Seam Placement Four: Place a 2×4 rectangle face up. Place a 2×4 rectangle with alternate color pattern face down on top of it. Stitch together. Repeat with remaining 3 pairs.

Seam Placement Five: Place a 4×4 square face up. Place a 4×4 square with alternate color pattern face down on top of it. Stitch together. Repeat with remaining pair.

Seam Placement Six: Place a 4×8 rectangle face up. Place the other 4×8 rectangle with alternate color pattern face down on top of it. Stitch together. Checker board seams are complete.

Boarder Seams (Top & Bottom): Place checker board right side up. Aline and pin boarder-strips on the top and bottom edge, right-side down. Stitch together. Trim away excess length.

Boarder Seams (Sides): Place checker board ride side up. Aline and pin boarder-strips on the sides, right-side down. Stitch together. Trim away excess length. Piecing is complete.

Layering

Place backing panel wrong side up.
Center and smooth batting over backing panel.
Center and smooth checker board quilt top over batting.

I like to place curved safety pins in a staggered pattern around work to keep layers from shifting during top stitching, because it is fast. Alternately, you can hand baste the layers with large running stitches.

Top Stitching

Top stitch along each seam row from top to bottom and left to right, starting in the center and working your way outward. Remove safety pins that are no longer needed as you work. I did switch to hand sewing for the remainder of the project for a more period appearance, but you may do as you wish.

About an hour in, I had to reach for my thimble. Top stitching through so many layers can be rough on the finger tips:)

Binding

Trim batting so that it is the same length as the quilt top.
Trim backing so that it approximately 1 inch longer than the quilt top.
Turn raw edge under approximately 1/2 an inch. Then, fold over the edge of the quilt top. Pin in place.

Secure with hand whip stitching. Quilted Checker Board is complete.

Making Checkers

Paint at least 12 disks black and at least 12 disks red on one side. We painted 14 of each, so we can loose a few and still play…lol. When dry, paint the other side and edges. I had helpers:)

To make the crown for the king side of the checker, I used a 1 inch round cookie cutter to stamp them on in gold paint.

Although not a necessary next step, we highly recommend testing your checker game with a quick match. William was eager to oblige!

Checker Storage Bag

Step One: Create a 1/2 inch rolled hem on each 7 inch edge, and machine stitch 1/8 inch from the edge to create draw string channels.

Step Two: Place rectangle right-side up and fold to bring the bottom edge in line with the top edge. Secure each side seam with 1/4 inch seams, leaving the rolled hem unstitched.

Step Three: Turn bag right-side-out. Cut cord in half securing all the ends with knots to keep them from unraveling. Attach a safety pin to one end of the cord to help feed in through the cord channels at the top of the bag. Knot free ends together. The checker storage bag is complete.

Game Storage Bag

Step One: Create a 1/2 inch rolled hem along one of the 22 inch edge, sand machine stitch 1/8 inch from the edge to create draw string channels.

Step Two: Place rectangle right-side up with rolled hem at the top edge and fold from the side until all edges match. Secure along the bottom and side edge with 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Step Three: Clip corner, and turn bag right-side-out. Attach the other prepared cord to a safety pin to help feed in through the cord channels at the top of the bag. Knot free ends together. The game storage bag is complete.

Game Storage

Fold quilted game board in half, then roll it up. Place game board and checker storage bag into storage bag. Enjoy your 1860s quilted checker board set!

A Historical Peak into 1860’s Checker’s

Hey Sis,

Your checker board is awesome! I recently asked on the Civilian Civil War Closet about checkers. I was curious if there were any historical quilted checker board patterns, or originals in collections. Unsurprisingly, I did find that handmade game boards were a thing! Here is pattern in Peterson’s 1864 for a Chess Table. Chess and Checkers were often played on the same board.

Janet from the Button Baron posted this image into the discussion, as well as an original she owns that is similar. I asked her if that was two books, because sure is what it looks like. And, she said that her’s were Titled the Hist. of Africa, and the pieces for game went inside. So, I guess the books were hollowed out for storage.

Another lady had actually seen quilted boards, but they were on blankets, or tablecloths! Another person mentioned that soldiers would paint them on their groundcloths. The ones that were quilted from soldiers, where usually made from wool uniform scraps. Here is a picture, and here is a link to that.

So, I didn’t find any originals like yours. But, definitely some very lovely handmade boards were created and used! I look forward to playing checkers with William!

~ Jamie

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1860’s Afghans

If you have ever considered making your very own historical afghan, here are some patterns that may catch your eye. All of these patterns were published in period magazines between 1858-1865. Most are simplistic in nature, and worked in smaller portions that are stitched together. There are period patterns for both crochet and knitters alike! However, almost all of these crochet afghans are worked in Tunisian or long hook crochet.

Knit Pattern – From Godey’s 1858. This is the only afghan pattern I have seen thus far made of cotton! As you see, they call it a quilt. I’ve seen multiple names for afghans include quilt, afghan, blanket and carriage wrap.

Crib Cover to Knit Peterson’s 1860 – I made this blanket for my daughter, and have a modernized free version of it here.

New Design for Crochet Afghan -Peterson’s 1861

Crib Cover to Knit – Peterson’s 1861 This is just a picture. There is not written pattern

Carriage Wrapper to Crochet – Godey’s 1862

Carriage Wrapper Godey’s 1862

Traveling Blanket in Crochet – Peterson’s Magazine 1862

Velvet Ribbon Afghan – Godey’s 1863

Velvet Ribbon Infant Blanket Godey’ 1863

Baby’s Carriage Afghan in Crochet – Peterson’s 1865: I made this afghan for my son. You can access the free modernized pattern here

Links to Raverly and our Historical Closet

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Modifying Microfiber AlOs to Hemp AIO – Cloth Diapering

If you are anything like me, you may not like your cloth diapers to have microfiber. The reason being, they are fluffy, they compress and oftentimes leak with heavier wetters. Microfiber is also difficult to keep clean, as microfiber tends to hold onto ammonia. Even with a very good washing routine, sometimes it is near to impossible to keep microfiber smelling clean.

Because of this, I often replace a microfiber all in one with natural fibers. My favorite fabric of choice is hemp fleece 370 gsm from Nature’s Fabric. I pick hemp fleece for these reasons

hemp is very trim, and has very little compression.
hemp fleece is softer then knit jersey.
fleece like fabric does produce more of a stay dry feel
hemp fleece doesn’t get the holes that a hemp knit jersey insert will get. I find hemp jersey will even get holes where a dull sewing needle goes through it. And even if you get an interlock jersey that will not continue to fray, a thicker fleece will last much longer.

My instructions kind of assume you have a serger, but I realize that isn’t a reality for everyone. If you don’t, you can opt to buy already made inserts. I would stick to trimmer options for easier washing. Keep in mind the insert size when purchasing, measure your diaper to make sure it will fit in nicely.

For this project, I had did some recycling. I some hempkicks prefolds laying around, which are made out of hemp fleece. I used two layers for each insert.

Before you start to sew, I would decide on what kind of flap style you want your aio’s to have. There are three main options. One directional, two directional, and snake. I personally, prefer one directional or snake. Cleaning a poop with inserts that flip in opposite directions isn’t for me. lol.

Both of these are Thirsties Microfiber AIO.

Step 1: Remove the old insert with a seam ripper.

Step 2: Use the old insert as a pattern for you new ones. Even if making a snake, just make it twice as long as the old one, and the same width. Serge around the insert.

Step 3: If using two inserts, and putting them on the same side…sew them together first. Then attach to the diaper wrong side to wrong side. Sew

All done, just trim the ends of the threads, and finish like a normal sewing project.

Happy Cloth Diapering,

Jamie

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1860’s Knitted Winter Accessories

Hi Sis,

I completed my knitted accessories today, that go with my 1860’s winter wear. I made a scarf, to take a chill of my neck…as I may have made my neckline on my coat a little short. A hood, to cover my ears as the wind blew under my quilted hood last venture. And some super warm mittens/gloves.

Scarf Pattern

My scarf is a combination two similar period patterns. The Princess Royal Scarf, which was featured in Godey’s Magazine, in 1856. And a Childs Muff pattern that was featured in Godey’s Magazine, in 1860.

Both original patterns call for 130 stitches, and are striped in two colors. The Princess Royal calls for each color band to be 6 rows wide, and the other 8 rows wide. One asks for every fifth stitch to be dropped, and the other every 4th. The have different numbers of stripes, but it is almost the same pattern republished.

I found the 130 stitches to be very small, child sized makes sense! I adjusted the pattern for myself. It’s not a super long scarf, but I can tie it once.

Materials
Sport Weight Yarn in two colors
Size 5 knitting needles

Pattern

Cast on 200 stitches (Or, more if you want it longer! This, is a stitch repetition of 5. Food for thought. Historically they didn’t have circular needles! Naturally, they did have options for making projects with width greater then the average needle size. However, for a simple project like a scarf. You generally see a smaller width knit as long as one likes)

Do eight rows of stockinette stitch. Change color, knit eight rows. If you like the look, or what a fluffier scarf you can reverse the stockinette. Knit till you have four repeats of each color.

Drop the fifth stitch, and tear all the way down to the bottom.

Cast off. I cast off one extra stitch right where the dropped stitch was, to add extra stretch there.

Sew up the side, and bottoms. Make pom poms or tassels and attach.

Richmond Gloves

These neat gloves where featured in Piecework Magazine. The pattern was developed by an Englishwoman in the 1860’s, but no exact date is given. You can purchase the pattern here for $6.50.

Godey’s Opera Hood 1862

What Materials I used
Sport Weight Yarn in two colors
Size 5 Knitting Needles
Tie

Pattern

Cast on 90 stitches.

Do 5 rows of stockinette stitch in one color. Reverse the stockinette stitch and do five rows in the alternate color.

I changed on thing. I followed the picture instead of the instructions. The pattern calls for 9 rows of one color and eight of the other. While, the picture shows 10

rows of one, and 9 of the other. I followed the picture, and I like it!

Cast off.

It is a pretty stretchy thing, but blocking it may make the colors stand out more. I didn’t block mine, but might do that. To tie, I opted for a functional wool cord made from a lucet loom.

Raverly link for this pattern

Happy Knitting,

Jamie

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DIY Blackout Curtains

Dear Sis,

During our recent visit, we transformed Evelyn’s bedroom into a perfect big girl room. The transformation inspired a living/play room reorganization, and a bedroom redo for Grant as well. Although we did what we could while I was still at your home, I didn’t have time to complete the linens before we needed to come home.

In recent days, we have completed a colorful twin duvet cover and a pair of coordinating pillow cases. Today was curtain making day. Although I’ve made blackout curtains a few times now, I’ve neglected to make a tutorial. This tutorial is for standard single window floor length curtains, but the finishing techniques can be used to create curtains of any dimension.

YOU WILL NEED

5 1/4 yards, 56 inch wide blackout lining fabric
5 1/4 yards, 56 inch wide decor fabric or 3 yards, 108 inch wide cotton quilt backing
3 yards woven rod loop tape
sewing thread to match

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Tear 2 (44 inch x 92.5 inch) panels from blackout lining.
Tear 2 (48 inch x 92.5 inch) panels from top fabric.

Place a lining and top fabric panel right-sides together and sew side seams using 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Center lining so that the main fabric that wraps around the lined side is even. Sew top closed with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Trim corners and turn right-side out.

Position rod loop tape along the top edge. Burn the cut edges to prevent fraying. Stitch tape in place along the top and bottom edges.

Finish the bottom of the edge of the curtain with a 4 inch rolled hem as pictured.

I’ll mail Grant’s bedroom linens later this week. I can’t wait to see how everything looks in his new big boy room!

Love,