Godey’s 1861 Fancy Belt Pattern

Hi Sis,

You gave me your old belt, the one I made you a few years back. Then, I got an idea! I was gonna have some fun!

Enter fancy belt, from Godey’s 1861.

Here is how it turned out! 

I planned to sell it, but now I’m not sure. 😂 It doesn’t look bad with my crazy bold kelly green silk dress. So, I may just keep it. 


Materials

Silk Taffeta
Interfacing
1 Inch velvet
Soutache braid 3 mm wide 
Buckle – You can find buckles from Ensembles from the Past and Button Barron

Step 1: Measure waist. Add 1 inch seam allowance, and 1 -2 inches for overlapping the back. Take this measurement and drawl it onto your silk tafffeta. If you want a two inch belt, cut it five inches wide.

Step 2: I interfaced my belt for extra stability, but this is optional.

Step 3: Sew one side of the belt (1/2 seam allowance), and down the main length. Do not sew other end. 

Step 4: Trim corners at end for a good fold/tip. 

Step 5: Invert. Iron, and use a butter knife to help give you a nice crisp edge along the seam.

Step 6: Fold in other end, and sew.

Step 7: Take one inch velvet, and sew it on 1/2 of an inch from bottom.

Step 8: Find center of belt, and put on buckle. Chalk the lines of your buckle, so that you know where to not have the braid loops getting in the way. Many period belts closed on the side.

Step 9: Mark where your braid loops will take pace, with a simple chalk line. You do not need to trace anything. Just mark the distance apart that you desire your loops, and stagger the top and bottom.

Step 10: Sew on braid.

Step 11: You can add a closure, such as a hook and eye. Or you can use a silk pin or two. I pin my belts on, and yes that is a period, and always a great fit!

Enjoy your belt!

 


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My 1860s Wool Day Dress

Dear Sis,

I absolutely love the way my wool day dress turned out! It is my favorite! Thanks for helping me make it. Tag-teaming a dress makes it go together so quickly:) 

We used the exact same bodice pattern as I did when making my silk day dress. The fabric is a lovely wool herringbone. It is lightweight and delicate and a breath taking color! Thanks for finding it!!!

Trim Inspiration:

An original owned and shared by Pinterest’s Travis Triplett

The fashion bonnet you made me is a perfect match with both my silk and wool day dresses! 

The silk bow belt you made is a very famine touch. I can’t wait to finish trimming it in black velvet! 

All the self-fabric buttons down the front of the bodice and between the bands of velvet on the skirt add such nice texture! 

Thanks for all your assistance!

Love,

b

A Yellow 1860s Dress for Charlotte

Dear Sis,

Charlotte is enamored with the color yellow! It is her absolute favorite!!! We happen to have some remnant from the day dress we made Mama Jenn last year. It is a yellow cotton/linen with large white window pane checks woven into it. During my planning phase, I usually try to find an originial for inspiration! I found one this CVD:

The original is likely a pale blue cotton. This girl is a bit older than Charlotte, but the window pane check is too perfect a match to pass up!!!

Although drafting patterns for children is not difficult, I usually start with Elizabeth Stewart Clark’s Infant Dress bodice patterns to save time. The pattern includes most variations: Two bodice cuts: one with an armscye and the other with a sleeve that creates its own armscye when sewn to the front and back panels. Both bodice styles can be made smooth, gathered, or pleated. It also has sleeve variations: long and short with smooth and gathered options. 

The shaping of this bodice requires the sleeves to be sewn to the front and back panels creating their own armscye in the process. My children are so long and lean the infant dresses fit well into 2T and 3T, I just have to lengthen them accordingly.

I started with a white cotton petti-chemise patterned and assembled exactly the same way as the dress with a thin band of eyelet around the hem, neckline, and sleeve bands. My only regrets: I wish I would have accounted for the length difference in the dress sleeve that is roll-hemmed vs. the chemise bodice that has a 1/2 inch eyelet. Then the two sleeve lengths would be more like the original image. But alas, I don’t care enough to actually fix it…lol!

The dress went together quickly. The only slowdown was the hand stitching needed to secure the dark brown braid and hook and eye tape closures in place. I also piped the neckline to give it a nice finished edge that would wear well. 

We are ready for our even this coming weekend!

Love,

b


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