While in the midst of making a new dress for the 1860’s, I decided to pick a fashion plate as my inspiration. The dress I am making has an interesting sleeve that is between a progoda and a coat sleeve. Either way, it isn’t a very full sleeve. But, it does need an under-sleeve, as it doesn’t come fully to the wrist.

Materials

Cotton Organdy – I purchased mine from EnsemblesofthePast,

White Cotton Thread

Embroidery Cotton Floss

Two buttons

1/4 Inch Elastic

Time to Start Sewing

Step 1: Essentially, you are making a tube. If you want to be fancy, you can make a tube from two pieces of fabric. If you don’t want to be fancy, one rectangle will do. I have a smaller wrist (5.5 inches) and didn’t want a very full under-sleeve.  So all together, my under-sleeve tube measured 26 inches wide by 14.25 inches long. Go larger, if you have a larger bone circumference, or want a fuller sleeve.

Step 2: For cuff, make it about 2.5 inches larger than your wrist. You want 1/2 inch seam on both sides, some overlap for the button, and some wriggle room at the wrist. You have two options that are simplistic. You can make a straight edged cuff, or you can angle the ends. My cuff was 2 inches wide, once completed. So, it required 3 inches for the seams located at the top and bottom of the cuff.

Step 3: If you would like to embroider your cuff, I recommend doing it before sewing it together, and even before you cut it out! I traced my cuff onto my fabric, and embroidered it as a larger piece, and cut it out later. I was inspired by the design on Past Patterns under-sleeves. 

Step 4: Sew the sides of the sleeves, and leave 2 inches un-sewn at the bottom. This is so you can have that overlap/gap at the button closure. Finish the bottom two inches by pressing the seam inward so there are no raw edges and sewing it down.

Step 5: Run two rows of gathering stitches at the end of the sleeve. I ran my gathering rows half way, so I could yank the strings in the middle as well as both ends. Then, gather and pin the sleeve right into the cuff. Remember you want right side to right side. Sew.

Step 6: You may have to sew the very ends of your cuff by hand. I have a hard time doing it with the machine.

Step 7: Fold down the inside of the cuff and whip stitch. Add a button hole to the cuff, maybe two if you made it wider.

Step 8: For the top of the sleeve, press down the fabric about 3/8 of an inch, and then fold it down again about 6/8 of an inch. I wasn’t particular, my fabric was starched and I pressed it by measuring with my eye.

Step 9: I used 1/4 inch elastic, and didn’t want space for it to swim. Sew, close to the edge. Leave about 1 inch open, so you can thread your elastic through. For elastic, I measured my arm where the sleeve would sit, and cut the elastic to that measurement.

Step 10: Thread through your elastic. Overlap the elastic by one inch, and sew it together. Then, sewed the hole shut. I personally found the sleeve stays in place very well between the elastic top and the cuff at the bottom.

Enjoy your undersleeves!

~ Jamie

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