1860’s Dress

Blue Cotton Sheer Dress

Hi Sis, 

I finally used up that fabric that we have been storing since 2013. Your originally purchased this fabric for the 150th Gettysburg Anniversary. While, you where busy figuring out how to make a corset for me, I was putting together two sheer dresses for both of us. My pink sheer turned out wonderfully, but your blue sheer looked like a giant great-grandmother’s nightgown with a hoop skirt.

Now, with more sewing experience, and knowledge of what looks better for your body type and height, I’m sure I could have made this dress into something much nicer for you. Due to your height, I’ve determined that adding something to the waist and bottom of the skirt, seems to help balance your overall silhouette, when we are working with very light shades of fabric. Also, custom fitted sleeves are a huge deal. Those bishop sleeves where so big, you could have used them as fishing net.

I’m sorry, I turned you into the pajama monster! But, I actually used most of your dress pieces from your old dress, to make this one. I only had to cut a a back and one sleeve out of scrap and left over fabric. And we still have one bodice… apparently, we tried to make two for you, and about a yard left. Eve wants a matching dress, but she told me not to make anything for Grant. It’s just supposed to be me and her that are matching this time. lol

Speaking of Eve, my recently turned four year old… she took all of these pictures! She had a blast, she loves to take pictures! She even says photographer, which is mouthful for her. I of course had to delete many photos where my head is chopped off, and I have a million pictures of plants. 

For dress construction, I actually used patterns!!! That is rather odd for me, as I generally make stuff up. lol I used the Past Patterns “A Sheer Muslin Dress with Bishop Sleeves, and Over-sleeves, for the sleeve pattern. I did make the bishop sleeve a lot smaller.  I know bigger sleeves where fashionable, but I generally go for smaller sleeves. For the bodice, I used Past Patterns, Pleated Bodice. Note for anyone using that pattern… I think the waist is very short, and the sizing for the measurement chart was off. My mock up was four sizes away from what I would have thought I needed, by looking at the sizing chart. Anyway, it wasn’t complicated, and it turned out very nice! If I make it again, I think I will tweak the back a bit more. I don’t really like the big puff. But, on a sheer I don’t find it offensive, but I am considering using the pattern on a wool or silk. 

For the skirt, I cartridge pleated it. And I paired the dress with a sash from one of my other dresses.

Love,

Jamie

I Made Stuff

Hi Sis,

It has been about a million years (okay, maybe a year) since I last did a blog post. But, I am a little excited about my latest crafting. I haven’t had much time to craft. However, the kids are getting to a stage where I can actually do things again. Grant naps and Evelyn plays on her own, it is fantastic.

When we went to Spring Gove Cemetery, I wore a tropical weight dress. It was perfect for the weather, but with most living history events out your way and in the summer, I knew I wanted a sheer. I once had a sheer dress. Remember this beauty? It may have been one of my favorite dresses ever. Sadly, I outgrew (gained weight) since I was twenty-one. lol 

I really wanted to make a dress that I liked just as much as this pink sheer. But, first I had to find the fabric. Finding sheer fabric was difficult. Would you like a solid? Maybe a plaid? Prints aren’t always the easiest to find, or at least ones that look passable for reproduction. 

I decided, on an Indian Border print. So, I checked out cotton saree fabric. There are a few sellers on Etsy… if anyone else is looking. I purchased 7 yards from RaajMa.

After, picking my fabric I looked for some inspiration. 

Going to be honest, this is probably more 1850 than 1860 sheer. But, oh the flounces and those sleeves!!! I really wanted those sleeves. Naturally, I didn’t have any pattern remotely like that, but heck I would figure it out. 

And I did. I just modified a progada sleeve about six times and got it. The rest of the dress was pretty easy, as I already had a dress that fit me and a decent pattern. But, I already see areas on the bodice to improve next time around.

That is it! I still have a little tweaking to do to the bodice to get it to lay completely flat at the closure. I think a few more hook and eyes will solve that problem. 

I also had a lot of fun with the accessories.

  • I made the belt from silk taffeta, and threaded a buckle from Ensembles of the Past through it.
  • The bonnet… I did NOT make. Making one bonnet was enough for me, and I have since then decided millenary isn’t a strong point. The bonnet is from Timely Tresses and is a Marie Stewart Style. 
  • The miser purse was handmade by me. After all the silk reticules I have made, sold and given away I actually didn’t have one for myself. So, I decided I was going to make one. Hopefully, I will get the pattern up sometime. 

 The originals/inspiration

I was pretty proud of this little reticule. It was my first time doing really getting into the beading on the edges. I have made plenty of tassels, but I never managed to get the beads on the top. (wrap them around with one strand, and sew them on with another piece of thread and a needle).

That’s it! More crafty to come… I can’t wait.

Jamiegoof

A Peachy Sheer

Alright, so I might have abandoned my blog for the past six months.  But, I’m back! And here is my peachy sheer summer dress, just in time for winter 🙂

This was a different project for me, as my sudden change in taste not only surprised myself, but also my sister and friends.  I have always chosen drab browns and blue fabrics, as they are practical colors for a dirt grubber such as myself, and their combination with my skin color doesn’t make me appear jaundice.  Yes, I might have that awkward skin tone that is somewhere between white and yellow/orange.

But, for some reason I couldn’t pass up this flowery peach sheer fabric.  Bright and chipper, I couldn’t help but to smile when I saw it.  I decided it turn it into a summer sheer dress, despite my sister’s distaste for the “ugly and retro” fabric.

detail

Next, I had to pick a pattern for my dress.  Even though they aren’t often the most flattering cut, I knew I wanted an O bodice.  As, I might have been obsessed with this pattern in my younger years.

next pattern

I didn’t end up using the simplicity pattern.  Though, my sister did make the belt for for my basic cotton day dress and it is quite lovely.  I will have to post that another day.  Instead, I selected the sheer dress from past patterns.  Which, had a rather extensive instruction pamphlet to help a novice such as myself.

pattern

The dress went together rather smoothly, and wasn’t that difficult to make.  Thankfully, I had my older sister to help me fit the bodice.  Plus, as an O bodice it didn’t have to be as fitted to look good.  I lined the bodice with white cotton, and did a hook and eye front.  Which, I did mess up by the way.  I didn’t know that one side of the bodice was supposed to overlap the other.  But, my goof isn’t that apparent until you see the bottom of the bodice, where there is a visible hole in the closing between two hooks and eyes.  Thank goodness for belts and aprons!
 
The dress complete…and in need of ironing.  I really should get a better photograph of it too.
 
jamie's sheer

What I would change

1)  The bodice closure.  If it wasn’t a sheer fabric, I would be tearing this thing apart and fixing the bodice so it overlaps and there is no gap.  
 
2) The sleeves.  The sleeves in this pattern have no cuffs.  They are gathered with an elastic band.  It is pretty, simple, and fast.  But, it isn’t sustaining, and I’m not sure how accurate it is.  I want to take it out, and add a basic white cuff.  That would help keep the sleeves clean and wear better.
 
Originally Published: here
Written by: Jamiegoof
more photos