Living History

Blue Cotton Sheer Dress

Hi Sis, 

I finally used up that fabric that we have been storing since 2013. Your originally purchased this fabric for the 150th Gettysburg Anniversary. While, you where busy figuring out how to make a corset for me, I was putting together two sheer dresses for both of us. My pink sheer turned out wonderfully, but your blue sheer looked like a giant great-grandmother’s nightgown with a hoop skirt.

Now, with more sewing experience, and knowledge of what looks better for your body type and height, I’m sure I could have made this dress into something much nicer for you. Due to your height, I’ve determined that adding something to the waist and bottom of the skirt, seems to help balance your overall silhouette, when we are working with very light shades of fabric. Also, custom fitted sleeves are a huge deal. Those bishop sleeves where so big, you could have used them as fishing net.

I’m sorry, I turned you into the pajama monster! But, I actually used most of your dress pieces from your old dress, to make this one. I only had to cut a a back and one sleeve out of scrap and left over fabric. And we still have one bodice… apparently, we tried to make two for you, and about a yard left. Eve wants a matching dress, but she told me not to make anything for Grant. It’s just supposed to be me and her that are matching this time. lol

Speaking of Eve, my recently turned four year old… she took all of these pictures! She had a blast, she loves to take pictures! She even says photographer, which is mouthful for her. I of course had to delete many photos where my head is chopped off, and I have a million pictures of plants. 

For dress construction, I actually used patterns!!! That is rather odd for me, as I generally make stuff up. lol I used the Past Patterns “A Sheer Muslin Dress with Bishop Sleeves, and Over-sleeves, for the sleeve pattern. I did make the bishop sleeve a lot smaller.  I know bigger sleeves where fashionable, but I generally go for smaller sleeves. For the bodice, I used Past Patterns, Pleated Bodice. Note for anyone using that pattern… I think the waist is very short, and the sizing for the measurement chart was off. My mock up was four sizes away from what I would have thought I needed, by looking at the sizing chart. Anyway, it wasn’t complicated, and it turned out very nice! If I make it again, I think I will tweak the back a bit more. I don’t really like the big puff. But, on a sheer I don’t find it offensive, but I am considering using the pattern on a wool or silk. 

For the skirt, I cartridge pleated it. And I paired the dress with a sash from one of my other dresses.

Love,

Jamie

1860s Memorial Day Picnic at Spring Grove Cemetery (2022)

Dear Sis,

Most of the photos featured in todays post are from other living historians who participated in this event and shared their photos on The Amaranth Society page on Facebook. 

After just two years, this event feels like a longstanding tradition:) 

All these lovely shots of the kids were taken by Mekaela Carter.

Photo by Dana Gagnon:

Charlotte and William had a lovely time playing with Carla.

William enjoying some pumpkin pie and Charlotte enjoying a timeless classic common from 1860s-today… macaroni and cheese!

Photo by Mekaela Carter:

William climbing Cyrus knees under the watchful eye of Dana Gagnon.

Happy Memorial Day!

Love,

b

1860s Memorial Day Picnic at Spring Grove Cemetery (2021)

Godey’s 1861 Fancy Belt Pattern

Hi Sis,

You gave me your old belt, the one I made you a few years back. Then, I got an idea! I was gonna have some fun!

Enter fancy belt, from Godey’s 1861.

Here is how it turned out! 

I planned to sell it, but now I’m not sure. 😂 It doesn’t look bad with my crazy bold kelly green silk dress. So, I may just keep it. 

Materials

Silk Taffeta
Interfacing
1 Inch velvet
Soutache braid 3 mm wide 
Buckle – You can find buckles from Ensembles from the Past and Button Barron

Step 1: Measure waist. Add 1 inch seam allowance, and 1 -2 inches for overlapping the back. Take this measurement and drawl it onto your silk tafffeta. If you want a two inch belt, cut it five inches wide.

Step 2: I interfaced my belt for extra stability, but this is optional.

Step 3: Sew one side of the belt (1/2 seam allowance), and down the main length. Do not sew other end. 

Step 4: Trim corners at end for a good fold/tip. 

Step 5: Invert. Iron, and use a butter knife to help give you a nice crisp edge along the seam.

Step 6: Fold in other end, and sew.

Step 7: Take one inch velvet, and sew it on 1/2 of an inch from bottom.

Step 8: Find center of belt, and put on buckle. Chalk the lines of your buckle, so that you know where to not have the braid loops getting in the way. Many period belts closed on the side.

Step 9: Mark where your braid loops will take pace, with a simple chalk line. You do not need to trace anything. Just mark the distance apart that you desire your loops, and stagger the top and bottom.

Step 10: Sew on braid.

Step 11: You can add a closure, such as a hook and eye. Or you can use a silk pin or two. I pin my belts on, and yes that is a period, and always a great fit!

Enjoy your belt!

 

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A Short Visit

Dear Sis,

We decided to come, for a short, but very enjoyable four day visit.

We went to Red Oak Town for the very first time. We had the pleasure of meeting a few awesome fellow historical crafters, but didn’t actually spend much time chatting. It was crazy hot and rainy, we never really settled in, and my kids had an epic meltdown with every cannon “Boom.” But, the town was really neat! I wish I had gotten more pictures. But, my hands were always full of a bag, snacks, and water, or a screaming kid. 

Grant – not hiding how he felt. Look at the dry ground, can you believe it rained multiple times that day?

It was so hot, that we ended up stripping the kids socks and shoes off and letting them run in bare feet. Poor little Grant had a mild heat rash on his chest when we left. I definitely, need to make him a sheer dress! We decided to stop for some much needed ice cream.

The kids had a blast going to play grounds, playing with each other and the neighborhood kiddos. They didn’t have as much fun when we dragged them around shopping, but I now have a long dress (that isn’t historical lol) to wear to this summer’s weddings.

We didn’t have much time for crafting. But, you got got close to finishing William’s Civil War outfit, and I worked on your linen traveling bag. Hopefully, I will finish that soon!

We also did a stinking cute cousin photo shoot for the grandparents.

Love,

Jamiegoof

Caesars Creek Pioneer Village, April 2022

Dear Sis,

Today was an adventure, chatting and walking around the pioneer village with several ladies from the Amaranth Society, snacking, and watching the kids play the day away.

Here is the kiddo photo roll!

The best photo of the day was taken by Brittany Fredrick!

Eve looked lovely in her new caplet! Having your needle book on hand proved very useful in repairing the trim on Eve’s dress too.

Grant was adorable in his wool frock!

Charlotte didn’t want to take her new yellow gown off. She wore it all the way until bedtime! Her crochet sweater and petticoat were perfect for the damp spring weather. 

William enjoyed playing with the big kids!

Thanks for a wonderful visit! 

Love,

b

My 1860s Wool Day Dress

Dear Sis,

I absolutely love the way my wool day dress turned out! It is my favorite! Thanks for helping me make it. Tag-teaming a dress makes it go together so quickly:) 

We used the exact same bodice pattern as I did when making my silk day dress. The fabric is a lovely wool herringbone. It is lightweight and delicate and a breath taking color! Thanks for finding it!!!

Trim Inspiration:

An original owned and shared by Pinterest’s Travis Triplett

The fashion bonnet you made me is a perfect match with both my silk and wool day dresses! 

The silk bow belt you made is a very famine touch. I can’t wait to finish trimming it in black velvet! 

All the self-fabric buttons down the front of the bodice and between the bands of velvet on the skirt add such nice texture! 

Thanks for all your assistance!

Love,

b

U.S. Grant Birthplace Bicentennial

Dear Sis,

Here is a photo dump from a wonderful afternoon at the bicentennial celebration of the birthplace of Ulysses S. Grant, the Commanding General of the Union Army that accepted the surrender of Robert E. Lee, ending the United States Civil War in 1865, and our nations 18th president, who lead post-war reconstruction efforts. 

It was hard to choose just two pictures of Eve! She still looks lovely in her sheer dress from last year. We just had to lengthen it a bit by adding another flounce to the hemline.

I love how natural this shot of William looks.

Tiny Toddlers: Charlotte’s new yellow dress was a hit and Grant was adorable in William’s hand-me-down frock with a tuck added to shorten it a bit since William was a bit taller at that age:)

Your new bonnet goes so well with your Fashion Plate inspired Daydress!

This is a great picture of the kids and one of your newest pattern creations Crochet Carriage Bag from Peterson’s 1858.

The fashion bonnet you made for me goes so well with my silk daydress. All it lacks now is so self-fabric buttons down the center front and collar and cuffs. Then I’ll have a frame for the brooch you gave me! Thanks for all your help making my first silk daydress look complete:) Your finishing touches make all the difference!

Our first event of 2022 was wonderful! I can’t wait for the vintage ball game next weekend:)

Love,

b

 

A Yellow 1860s Dress for Charlotte

Dear Sis,

Charlotte is enamored with the color yellow! It is her absolute favorite!!! We happen to have some remnant from the day dress we made Mama Jenn last year. It is a yellow cotton/linen with large white window pane checks woven into it. During my planning phase, I usually try to find an originial for inspiration! I found one this CVD:

The original is likely a pale blue cotton. This girl is a bit older than Charlotte, but the window pane check is too perfect a match to pass up!!!

Although drafting patterns for children is not difficult, I usually start with Elizabeth Stewart Clark’s Infant Dress bodice patterns to save time. The pattern includes most variations: Two bodice cuts: one with an armscye and the other with a sleeve that creates its own armscye when sewn to the front and back panels. Both bodice styles can be made smooth, gathered, or pleated. It also has sleeve variations: long and short with smooth and gathered options. 

The shaping of this bodice requires the sleeves to be sewn to the front and back panels creating their own armscye in the process. My children are so long and lean the infant dresses fit well into 2T and 3T, I just have to lengthen them accordingly.

I started with a white cotton petti-chemise patterned and assembled exactly the same way as the dress with a thin band of eyelet around the hem, neckline, and sleeve bands. My only regrets: I wish I would have accounted for the length difference in the dress sleeve that is roll-hemmed vs. the chemise bodice that has a 1/2 inch eyelet. Then the two sleeve lengths would be more like the original image. But alas, I don’t care enough to actually fix it…lol!

The dress went together quickly. The only slowdown was the hand stitching needed to secure the dark brown braid and hook and eye tape closures in place. I also piped the neckline to give it a nice finished edge that would wear well. 

We are ready for our even this coming weekend!

Love,

b

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