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2021 Crafting in Review

Hey Sis,

For some reason, I like to do a yearly album of things I create. I started doing this on Facebook, and figured… why, not the blog? Here are all the things I made in 2021! Can’t wait to get crafting this year 🙂

For the first half of the year, I was really into hand dyeing and making cloth diapers. Stretchy flats were my main craft.

Then, I took a dramatic turn back to historical sewing and knitting as we started to attend living history events again.

June

Summer Indian Sheer 

Blue Miser Purse

July

First I made a purse for you, that we decided to not keep

Then, I made this one, which we decided was a keeper!
Brandy’s Pink Miser Purse

Then together, we finally finished your pretty Sheer Dress. 

Brandy’s Sheer Dress

Then, for some reason I went on a Paletot making craze. I ended up making three, before I made one that I wanted to keep. Number one –  This one, I made the armseye going into the bodice to much. It was also black, and after spending all this time on the design. I decided I wanted it to stand out on a brighter colored coat.

 

Number two – I made this one to sell, as I had extra fabric and I wanted to smooth out the fitting issues before making my coat in the blue wool that I ordered.

August

In

In August, I made my very first silk day dress. This was a reproduction of an original dress and it took forever to sew all that velvet trim! I still haven’t worn it to an event, hopefully this year! 

September

I had a washing accident with my sheer Indian printed gown, and ended up having to dye it pink so it wasn’t all splotchy. I really miss the original cream color, but it isn’t bad.

I worked on a few projects during this month, but didn’t finish anything until October.

October

I made my very first silk organza dress, and ended selling it! I really don’t like the feel or the look of the fabric. I also ended up not liking the print. So, it went bye bye.

Silk Organza Dress

Then, I finally finished my coat! I ended up combining both of my coat designs. Very labor intensive, but worth the work!

Then, I made a pair of embroidered cuffed undersleeves for a dress I was working on.

November

November was a fun month, I finished my very first fashion plate inspired dress. I made my first fabric covered buttons, made a neck bow, and a cute belt to go with the dress.

I also worked and finished a pattern for Tunisian Crochet undersleeves from Godey’s 1865

December

Was the craziest month of all. We decided to go to an event, and I didn’t have any winter wear for the kids.

Both kids needed wool petticoats and dresses. Grant’s frock and Evelyn’s Dress

Then, of course they needed some outer wear. 

Evelyn’s 1859 Winter Casaque from Peterson’s Magazine, with a matching hood.

Grant got a very patriotic hood and coat. I even knitted the kids little mittens and attached them to the coat sleeves.

I also finished a hood that had been on my to do list for a year!

I also whipped up two pairs of garters for both of us sisters!

And right before the end of the year, I finished trimming your winter coat!

I’m sure I missed some stuff! Particularly, the modern things I made. lol. Can’t wait for next year. I already have a head start on a few exciting projects, and so many plans!

Love, Jamie

 

Make Your Own Covered Buttons with a Modern Press, or the Hand Sewn Method

Hi Sis,

After hearing failed reports from others, and reading negative reviews on amazon, I bought my first silk covered buttons from Button Barron. They were beautiful, and I really really like fabric covered buttons now.

But, alas it is me we are dealing with. I wanted to make my own covered buttons. Why would I mail fabric somewhere, pay, and wait for them… when, I want them now!!!

I bought a legit button covering machine press. It was about $80.00 on amazon.  I figured with all the clothing we make it would pay for itself in about a year or two. 

I was sorely disappointed. It arrived with the wrong molds, it said it came with a 18, 25, and 30. (I like size 20 buttons, but figured 18 would do… it came with size 30, 40, and 48!!! Like seriously who needs a size 48 button? Thats a flipping pin)

Anyway, it also had the screws crocked and sent me cheap buttons, and I sent that back to where it came… just like the others before me. The box it came looked like it had been tapped up and shipped about 10 times.

Okay, now on with the good stuff. How to make your own silk covered buttons

First, buy your materials. You will need to get a kit the the button mold and press… if you don’t have one. Your choices are

  • pad back buttons – these are flatter buttons. Personally, I prefer these.
  • shank buttons 
  • various sizes. I used a size 20.

Other supplies, include your fabric and some kind of pad to help save your hand. I used a piece of felt folded up.

Step 1: Cut out your pattern. Cut it a bit larger actually then the pattern given to you with your buttons. Also, cut two layers of fabric!!! Silk taffeta is not thick enough in one layer, to hold. 

Step 2: Press it down into the mold. Then take the press, and run it along the edges and press everything down towards the center.

Step 3: Actually, press the shank down with the press. Press it like you mean business. I recommended a hand pad for this reason

pressure made by making just one button. Multiple buttons will really make your hand/fingers sore.

There you go! Now you have buttons easy peasy.

Working with Wool or other Fabric that Frays? Use glue, take scissors and cut flat to get rid of any frays that are sticking out. 

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Hand Sewn (The Historical Way)

For some reason, I didn’t think to try the historical method. I saw a video on it recently, and thought, “Oh, that looks easy!” The press is a fidgety thing, and it hurts my hands. With this method I had my seven buttons in no time, with zero stress and happy hands! I also like the pad back. Shanks stick out, catch onto things, and press into you.

Step 1: Is to cut out your fabric a bit bigger than your button mold, and round the edges. Naturally, for historical purposes they didn’t have plastic buttons as molds! hehehehe But, I have those in abundance, so it happened.

Step 2: About 1/8 of an inch away run a running stitch around the edge of the circle. Pop in your button mold, and drawl it shut. Use your needle to sew it together, and yank taunt enough that your fabric is nice and smooth on the front side.

Enjoy your buttons! You can sew them directly on with the tail that you used to make the button. But, I do suggest securing it with a few knots first. That way it will not fall apart if you have to remove it from your garment. 




 

Silk Belt Pattern

Here is one of my versions of a fun bow belt. Belts and sashes such as these were pretty common in fashion plates, especially with bows. You can see them in the front, side, or even on the back of the dress. This version has rounded ends.

First, start with the belt part. Measure your waist, and add about 3 – 4 inches for overlap and seam allowance.

Then, figure out width. I wanted a 2 inch belt, so I cult mine at 5 inches wide, folded it over and sewed it with a 1/2 inch seam. 

Sew one corner and most of the side! Leave one side open so you can invert, and enough space to sew the tails into the belt. Press. Trim corners so you get a nice angle. I use a butterknife so I can get a crisp edge while pressing.

For the next part you need the tails. You will need to cut 4 of these. scanned belt tails pattern pdf

  • Do keep your height and hoop skirt size in mind. I am 5 ft 4 inches, and using a 108 inch hoop. If you are significantly taller or wearing a larger hoop, you may want to adjust the pattern to be longer and wider. I would cut out a paper version, tape it together, and drape it on your dress. See if you like the result before you make it!
  • You can always cut about 1/2 or so around the pattern if you want it just a smidge bigger.

Cut, out four of the tails, and sew with a 1/4 – 1/2 inch seam allowance. You will not be sewing all the way up the belt, as you see there is a line a few inches from the top that says, “Stop Sewing Here” that is so it is easier to invert your work. You can fold in that part later and sew it down. 

If you are adding the trim on top, you do not need to stress at all about having a perfectly rounded or straight edge. 

I made the trim by using a rotary cuter to make 1/2 inch cuts of silk. Then, I got a baby fork, and fork pleated. You can look up how to fork pleat on youtube. It is very, very simple and fast! I used the sewing machine to sew the trim right onto the tails.

I added a tack stitch in the center of the tail, to keep the tails together, so they didn’t overlap each other.

Put the tails into your belt about a half inch. Fold in the raw edge and sew your belt close.

For this type of bow I cut a 6×12 inch piece of fabric, and folded it in half so it was a square. Then, I sewed it together, but I left about 1 1/2 inches in the center un-sewn so I could invert the fabric. Trim edges to make them have a nice angle, turn in raw edge (no need to sew it now) and press.

Sew trim on top.Using your trim, pinch in the center and wrap the trim around a few times. Sew right into the center of your two tails on the belt. And it is done!

 

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Note: You may have noticed some slubs on my silk belt. Sadly, the only matching trim I could find for my dress was a shantung. In an ideal world, you should use silk taffeta for historical sewing. 

copyright2021 – this pattern is for personal use only. This pattern is not to be sold or redistributed.

A Quick Neck Bow

I cut out one piece of fabric 12X5 inches. Folded it in half and sewed one corner and the side with a 1/2 seam allowance. Flipped it inside out and ironed.

Then, I folded the sides into the back and overlapped them by 1/4 – 1/2 inch and sewed it down. 

Took a needle and sewed the center with some big stitches and yanked the thread to create the crunch. I usually do this two times, and then wrap the thread around the middle a few times for extra stability.

The center was a 3×3 inch piece of fabric. Sew a 1/2 inch seam to make a 1 inch tube. I didn’t both sewing the ends, you can just turn them under, while wrapping it around the bow. Flip inside out, and iron.

If you want ties, measure the length of tie you want. You can always make it shorter. I made mine 5 inches wide just like the bow and sewed it with a 1/2 seam allowance.

I wanted a fringed edge, so I left about 1 inch un-sewn on both sides of the seam.  Fringe by using a pin to pluck a few threads at time.

Just in case you are wondering, this isn’t silk taffeta… what it should technically be made out of! The silk I found that matched my dress was a shantung, which has slubs. But, since it was a trim, and I wanted it to match… I just went with it.

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Undersleeves

While in the midst of making a new dress for the 1860’s, I decided to pick a fashion plate as my inspiration. The dress I am making has an interesting sleeve that is between a progoda and a coat sleeve. Either way, it isn’t a very full sleeve. But, it does need an under-sleeve, as it doesn’t come fully to the wrist.

Materials

Cotton Organdy – I purchased mine from EnsemblesofthePast,

White Cotton Thread

Embroidery Cotton Floss

Two buttons

1/4 Inch Elastic

Time to Start Sewing

Step 1: Essentially, you are making a tube. If you want to be fancy, you can make a tube from two pieces of fabric. If you don’t want to be fancy, one rectangle will do. I have a smaller wrist (5.5 inches) and didn’t want a very full under-sleeve.  So all together, my under-sleeve tube measured 26 inches wide by 14.25 inches long. Go larger, if you have a larger bone circumference, or want a fuller sleeve.

Step 2: For cuff, make it about 2.5 inches larger than your wrist. You want 1/2 inch seam on both sides, some overlap for the button, and some wriggle room at the wrist. You have two options that are simplistic. You can make a straight edged cuff, or you can angle the ends. My cuff was 2 inches wide, once completed. So, it required 3 inches for the seams located at the top and bottom of the cuff.

Step 3: If you would like to embroider your cuff, I recommend doing it before sewing it together, and even before you cut it out! I traced my cuff onto my fabric, and embroidered it as a larger piece, and cut it out later. I was inspired by the design on Past Patterns under-sleeves. 

Step 4: Sew the sides of the sleeves, and leave 2 inches un-sewn at the bottom. This is so you can have that overlap/gap at the button closure. Finish the bottom two inches by pressing the seam inward so there are no raw edges and sewing it down.

Step 5: Run two rows of gathering stitches at the end of the sleeve. I ran my gathering rows half way, so I could yank the strings in the middle as well as both ends. Then, gather and pin the sleeve right into the cuff. Remember you want right side to right side. Sew.

Step 6: You may have to sew the very ends of your cuff by hand. I have a hard time doing it with the machine.

Step 7: Fold down the inside of the cuff and whip stitch. Add a button hole to the cuff, maybe two if you made it wider.

Step 8: For the top of the sleeve, press down the fabric about 3/8 of an inch, and then fold it down again about 6/8 of an inch. I wasn’t particular, my fabric was starched and I pressed it by measuring with my eye.

Step 9: I used 1/4 inch elastic, and didn’t want space for it to swim. Sew, close to the edge. Leave about 1 inch open, so you can thread your elastic through. For elastic, I measured my arm where the sleeve would sit, and cut the elastic to that measurement.

Step 10: Thread through your elastic. Overlap the elastic by one inch, and sew it together. Then, sewed the hole shut. I personally found the sleeve stays in place very well between the elastic top and the cuff at the bottom.

 

 

Enjoy your undersleeves!

~ Jamie

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Making Blackout Curtains

Dear Sis,

Daddy moved William’s toddler bed out of our room and into his room. We explained that baby sister will cry and wake him up, so it is best for him to sleep in his own room. He nodded and said, “Baby sister fuss like Baby Em at night night.” Your visit left an impression in more ways than one:)

His first night went well, but the following day during nap time, he said, “Mama turn the lights out.” I replied, “Sorry sweetie, I can’t turn off the sun.” We hung a blanket over the window as a quick fix, but I realized it was time to make some blackout curtains for William’s room!

Not sure exactly how to go about making curtains, I did some research online. I used this measurement guide to help me decide how large I wanted my finished panels to be.

Confetti Style: Your Guide for Stylish Living

Then, I stumbled upon this wonderful tutorial: How to Make Blackout Curtains

I went to the fabric store planning to buy 6 yards 54 inch wide home decor fabric and blackout lining. JoAnn Fabrics carries a suitable lining for $8.00 a yard. As a bonus it was, 30% off. However, I was unable to find a suitable home decor fabric in that width, so I decided to look in the 45 inch width section. This width change meant I needed 9 yards and I’d have to piece my curtain panels. Sadly, all the fabrics I liked were on an 8 yard bolt! Feeling a bit defeated I wondered the clearance section. Just as I was about to wrap things up and many try Hobby Lobby instead, I found the perfect 45 inch wide fabric on a 10 yard bolt on clearance for $3.00 a yard! My 20% off entire purchase including sale and clearance items kept me on budget at $54.00.

Assembly took the better part of a day… wrestling huge heavy rectangles slows the simplicity of a bunch of straight seams. I hastened the process of creating rod loops, by using Dritz Rod Loop Tape along the top edge. I happened to have a pack in my notions box I picked out of a clearance bin some years ago:)

We are using the curtains on the rod left by the last family, so our curtains look much to long and full at present, but Papa Carmin will hang the new rod for us when he comes with you to help with baby sister’s arrival.

The curtains work so well, the picture is quite dark:)

Love,

b

Father’s Day Project

Dear Sis,

Today we made some sentimental work gloves for all the grandpas as a father’s day gift.

We bought a three pack of leather work gloves at Menards for $4.99. We pulled out some blue, green, and black paint respectively. We put the paint on a paper plate and painted William’s hand with a sponge brush and then used it like a stamp on the palm of each glove. We only smudged one, which was amazing considering my stamp was attached to a wiggly 2.5 year old:)

We had a soapy water pail and a drying rag at the ready to clean our hands between stampings. 

The idea and poem were found here.

Here is an editable printable, so our readers can put in their Father/Grandfather’s Name and the Name of their tiny gift giver.

Father’s Day Glove Poem

Love,

B

DIY Passover Doll

Dear Sis,

This is the final DIY for my Passover Lesson Plan. It is a doll to help little people learn about plague six… boils. Little kids love bandages, so I thought it would be a great activity to give William a box of bandages to stick all over the doll to cover the boils. It’s a bit unconventional I guess, but I don’t see a reason to shelter my kids from the more gruesome bits of religious history. The human experience isn’t always pretty, he might as well start learning that now.

To begin, you will need an 18″ cloth doll and some chunky black yarn.

Hair is the first chunk of the project. I cut 18 inch lengths of yarn for the length of the hair, and 8 inch lengths for the bangs. I started around my visualized center part and stitched the yarn in place with needle and thread. The yarn is black, consequently the photos aren’t as clear as I would prefer.

There are four single pieces of yarn folded in half on the right side. Only two are stitch on the left, as pictured.

For the back, I started with double strands on the outer most bits, then did a set of triple strands, and one set of quadruple strands in the very center back. The multiple strands fill in the roundedness of the back of the head nicely. 

I stitched the bangs on in single and double strands depending on the amount of coverage needed in that area. The final step was a hair cut. I did a boy’s bob, for a girl make it longer.

The next part of the project is the tunic. It can be completely sewn by hand, but I used a machine on the inner seams to save time. First is some simple pattern making. 

The body of the tunic is an 8×7 inch rectangle as pictured, but I modified it in the cutting step to 10×7 inches because I decided it was too short. The sleeves are 3×3 inch squares that line up with the top of the body rectangle. I used a lid to help shape the neckline, but the dimensions in the next picture will help you create the curve without a lid:)

The neckline is centered. It is 3 3/4 inches wide and 1 1/4 inches deep. Cut 2 from desired fabric. I used some broadcloth remnant. 

I cut a 2 inch slit in the center front to create a gusset in the front opening to ease the garment over the head.

The seams are stitched with 1/4 inch seam allowance.

I pressed 1/2 inch rolled hem into the bottom of the tunic on the bottom of each sleeve opening. I pressed the neckline under a 1/4 inch.

I secured all the pressed edges by hand using the running stitch. I also made a belt with some ribbon to complete the outfit.

Before dressing the doll, I used fabric paint to create the boils.

Happy Passover!

Love,

b