Tutorials

Velcro Sticks

Dear Sis,

I saw this idea on Pinterest and thought William was at the perfect age for it! We made a second set for cousin Ronan. His second birthday is later this month. We will get to meet him and give him his gift in person when we go to Iowa in a few weeks:)

To Make Your Own Velcro Sticks:

  • Wide Colored Craft Sticks
  • Sticky Velcro Circle

It really is that simple!

Love,

b

 

Mini Soap Apron Valentines

Dear Sis,

I know Valentine’s Day is a few months off, but I also these as birthday gifts, and why not save some for Mother’s Day too:) I hand sewed mine because I found that more relaxing and less nap time disruptive, but they would be much quicker to machine sew. 




Materials

(6 x 8 inch) board cloth fabric remnant

(20 inches) coordinating 1/4 inch double fold bias tape

Mini Soap Apron and Bottle Valentine Template PDF




Assembly Instructions

  1. Print PDF Pattern. Cut out apron pattern.
  2. Press fabric. Fold it in half to make a 6 x 4 inch double layer piece. Place pattern on fold line and secure with pins. Cut out apron.
  3. Turn under and press 3/8 inch hem into neckline, sides, and bottom edge of apron. No need to press the armscye, it will be bound in bias.
  4. Secure pressed hems with machine straight stitch or hand running stitch.
  5. Leaving 5 inch ties on either side, open bias and place it over the raw edge of each armscye. Pin in place. Remember to tuck the raw edges of each tie end inside the tape.
  6. Secure bias with machine straight stitch, or hand running stitch for the length of the bias and whip stitch at the very ends.

One 8.5 x 11 inch sheet of card stock makes 3 bottle Valentines.

Happy Sewing,

b




 

D.I.Y. Owl Sleep Sack

Dear Sis,

William is very partial to routine… especially at bedtime. We travel at least once a month and now that he is too big for many cribs and travel beds, I decided to go the sleeping bag route. I wanted to provide something he would want to climb into! He has been owl crazy for a couple of months… and I liked the idea of an Owl Sleep Sack. I found a great picture online to inspire my creative juices. This image is actually an American Girl doll sleeping bag:)

Inspiration

Finished Sleep Sack

Finished Dimensions (30 x 60 inches, not including pillow)

Materials

2 yards fleece, striped (outer fabric)

5 yards broadcloth (lining)

2 yards flannel, dot (wings)

1 yard broadcloth (pillow sham)

White, yellow, and black broadcloth remnants (appliqué facial features)

double sided fusible interfacing, such as WonderUnder

standard pillow, 20 x 28 inches

20 inch zipper, matching lining fabric (sleep sack closure)

4 hooks and eyes (sham closure)

tissue paper and clear tape (pattern making)

Assembly

  1. Fleece is 60 inches wide. To create 2, approximately 30 inch wide by 60 inch long panels, for the front and back of the sleep sack, it is easiest to fold the fabric in half lengthwise, cut along the fold, and trim away the bulky salvage on the other side. As a bonus, this cutting technique should also make it easier to match the fabric stripes at the seams.
  2. Most broadcloth comes 45 inches wide. Although, it actual measures more closely to 44 inches.  Fold 5 yard section in half lengthwise, so that you have two panels that are 60 inches long and cut along fold. Lay fleece panels over broadcloth panels and trim broadcloth down to 30 inches wide using the fleece as a cutting guide.
  3. Optional: Cut to round bottom corners of sleep sack outer fabric and lining fabric panels at this time.
  4. Tape two pieces of tissue paper together. Make wing pattern. Ours are just about half the length (30 inches) of the sleeping bag. Use the picture above as a visual reference. Cut 4 flannel wing panels. 
  5. Place 2 wing panels right-sides together and seam together along the shaped, top and bottom edges, of the wing, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Snip cures, turn right-side-out, and press. Repeat to make second wing.
  6. Lay a single panel of fleece right-side up. Lay wings on top facing inward as pictured below. Secure with stay stitching.
  7. With wings still folded inward, place both fleece panels together with right sides facing. Sew together with a 5/8 inch seam allowance with 20 inches open on one side for the zipper. If you opted to curve the bottom of the sleep sack, clip seam allowance as needed and turn right side out.
  8. Place both lining panels together with right sides facing. Sew together with a 5/8 inch seam allowance with 20 inches open on one side for the zipper. If you opted to curve the bottom of the sleep sack, clip seam allowance as needed for turning, but leave inside out.
  9. Lay fleece sack right side up. Working with only the top panels of each layer, pin wrong-side of lining opening to right-side of fleece opening along the zipper and top edges. Sew together with 5/8 inch seam allowance. Clip corns and turn seam right side out, by inserting lining into sleep sack. Set aside and begin working on pillow and sham.
  10. Round the top corners of a stand sized pillow as pictured below. I found it easier to do this sewing by hand.
  11. Set pillow on tissue paper and trace to make a pattern for the sham cover. 
  12. Notice in the picture above that the pattern is only half of the pillow sham. Cut the top panel on a fold. Cut 2 back panels. Note that 1/2 inch is added to the curved edge for seam allowance,  1 inch is added to the straight edges of the back panels to allow for hemming and 5/8 inch is added to the bottom for attachment to the sleep sack.
  13. Finish the straight edges of each sham back panel with a 1/2 inch rolled hem.
  14. Make a pattern for the horns and other facial features of the owl as depicted below. Oops I didn’t make a picture of the horn, but if you made it this far you aren’t helpless:)
  15. Fuse interfacing to the wrong-side of white, yellow, and black fabric remnants, then cut 2 eyes, 2 eye lashes, and 1 beak. 
  16. Fuse eye lashes to eyes. Stitch around eye lashes with dense zig-zag stitch.
  17. Arrange facial features on top sham panel. Fuse eyes, and then beak. Stitch around eyes and beak with dense zig-zag stitching.
  18. Cut 4 horn pieces. I used broadcloth for the fronts (2) and flannel for the backs (2) to add a bit more structure. Seam together, right-sides together, with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, along both curved sides, leaving the bottom open. Clip allowance, turn, and press.
  19. Pin horns right-side down on top of sham panel. Stay stitch.
  20. Pin horns down, so they can’t move. Place back panels right-side down over face. Overlap rolled hems at the center. Secure with a 1/2 inch seam. Clip curve as needed, turn, and press. It should look something like the picture below.
  21. Place sleep sack face down. Center pillow sham face up and upside-down with fleece layer only. Remember to overlap rolled hem in the same order as it was overlapped on the top seam. The picture below should help with positioning. Sew with a 5/8 inch seam allowance.
  22. Turn sleep sack face up. Fold the top panel back to expose the back panel. To finish the lining along the zipper and top edges, fold lining under and pin in place. Top fold should line up with the 5/8 inch line of stitching that attached the pillow sham. Zipper fold is a bit trickier because both the fleece and the lining have to be folded under and pinned. Top stitch around the entire top opening 1/4 inch from edge.
  23. Install the zipper.
  24. Install hooks and eyes in the back of the sham at equal spacing.
  25. To give the horns more structure, open a small area of stitching along the outside curve. Add a bit of stuffing and whip stitch closed by hand. Put pillow inside the sham and you are done! 

For even more satisfaction, have your local small person climb in and try it out:) My 20 month old son was full of hoo-hoos as he climbed in.

Happy Sewing,

b

 

Emerald Baby Dress

Hi sis,

This is the new dress I’ve been daydreaming about. I got the ideas from several different patterns, and ended up forging them together in my head to make this baby dress! Very happy with the result! The pattern is seamless, and has vertical stripes that give it a cute flair, and isn’t too busy to focus on!

Emerald Baby Dress

by: Jamie Quick

Materials:
E size hook
Fingering Weight Yarn (I used 4 oz)
3 Buttons
Spool (1 – 2 yards) 1/4 inch ribbon

Stitches

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = hdc
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
You will also be working in front/back loops to create a rib look. If you don’t know how to do this, check a few youtube videos. It is a very simple and fun technique.

Size: 6 – 12 months

Chain 89

  1. hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in next 13 stitches, *ch2, hdc in next 21 stitches* repeat from * to * two more times, hdc in last 11 stitches.
  2. ch2, hdc in next 10 stitches, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc in ch 2 space below)  *hdc in next 21 stitches (2hdc, ch2, 2 hdc in ch2 space below)* repeat from * to * 2 more times, hdc in last 14 stitches
  3. ch2, hdc in next 16 stitches, (1hdc, ch2, 1 hdc in ch2 space below) *hdc in next 25 stitches (1hdc, ch2, 1 hdc in ch2 space below) repeat from * to * 2 more times, hdc in last 13 stitches
  4. Eyelet Round ch4, skip 1 stitch, dc *ch1, dc* to ch 2 space (2dc, ch2, 2 dc in ch2 space below). Repeat eyelet pattern with (2dc, ch2, 2dc in each ch2 space below)
    1. Note: There will be 13 (ch1 spaces) in the three large sections. 
    2. Note: On the edge, you will have two dc in a row. Do not put a ch1-space between them or your edge will not be even.
  5. ch2, hdc in each dc and ch1 space below, (hdc, ch2, hdc in each ch2 space below). 
    1. Note: Remember to keep edge straight, by doing a hdc in the top of the 3rd chain at the very end of the row.
  6. ch2, hdc in next 16 stitches, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc in ch2 space below) *hdc in next 32 stitches (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc in ch2 space below)* repeat from * to * 2 more times, hdc in last 21 stitches
  7. ch2, hdc in next 22 stitches, (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc in ch2 space below) *hdc in next 36 stitches (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc in ch2 space below)* repeat from * to * 2 more times, hdc in last 19 stitches
  8. ch2, hdc in next 19 stitches (2hdc, ch2, 2 hdc in ch2 space below) * hdc in next 38 stitches, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc in ch 2 space below)* repeat from * to * 2 more times, hdc in last 24 stitches
  9. ch2, hdc in next 25 stitches (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc in ch2 space below) * hdc in next 42 stitches (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc in ch2 space below)* repeat from * to * 2 more times, hdc in next 21 stitches
  10. ch2, hdc in next 21 stitches, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc in ch2 space below) *hdc in next 44 stitches (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc in ch2 space below)* repeat from * to * 2 more times, hdc in next 27 stitches
  11. Divid Row (You are separating the sleeve sections here). Ch2, hdc in next 28 stitches, 1hdc in ch 2 space below, ch7, 1hdc in next (skip 48 stitches) ch2 space, 1 hdc in chain 2 space below, hdc across to next ch2 space, 1hdc in ch2 space below, ch7 (skip 48 stitches) 1 hdc in ch2 space below, hc across to end
  12. Eyelet Round ch4, *skip 1 stitch, dc, ch1* repeat from * to * till last six stitches. Ch1, join into the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain.
  13. *Sc in dc, sc in ch1 space below, sc in dc, 2sc in ch1 space below* repeat around. Join with slip stitch into first stitch.

Skirt

Do not cut off yarn! With yarn still attached to the bodice, Chain 58

  1. dc in the fourth chain from hook, 29 dc, 15 hdc, 10 sc, attach to the bottom of bodice with a slip stitch. Slip stitch into the next bodice stitch, chain 1, turn
  2. Working in front loop only, 10 sc, 15 hdc, 30 dc, ch3 turn
  3. Working in back loop only, 29 dc (ch3 counts as first dc), 15 hdc, 10 sc, attach to next stitch of the bodice with a slip stitch, slip into next stitch into bodice, ch 1, turn

 Read Note: On some rows (approximately 1/2 to 1/3 of the rows) you will want to skip a stitch on the bodice, because that is what it will take for you skirt to lay flat.

Repeat row 2- 3 until your skirt is complete. Seam the back of the skirt together with a slip stitch on the wrong side, or sew together.

Skirt Border:

Chain 3, tr crochet into the 3rd chain from hook, skip 2 dc and sc right into the ribbing of the second dc. Repeat around, slip stitch to join. Fasten off, weave in tail.

Sleeves:

Attach yarn to underside of the sleeve, right in the middle of the eyelet area.

  1. Sc 60 stitches evenly around. Join with slip stitch.
  2. Ch 5, dc in the same stitch, *skip two stitches, dc, ch1, dc in next stitch, repeat from * to * till end. Join with slip stitch into the fourth chain. (20 V stitches)
  3. ch5, dc in same stitch, dc, ch1, dc in each V stitch below. Join with slip stitch into fourth chain. (20 V stitches.
  4. Repeat row 3 till you have 9 rows of V stitches.
  5. Ch1, 2 sc in the center of each V stitch. Join with slip stitch (40 sc)
  6. *ch3, tr in 3rd chain from hook, skip 4 stitches, sc* repeat from * to * till end. Join with slip stitch. Fasten off. Weave in tail.

Buttonhole row.

Attach yarn at neckline on the back of the bodice where you want your buttonhole row to go. Evenly sc 18 stitches down the placket back.

2) 3sc, ch3, skip 2 stitches, 3sc, ch3, skip 2 stitches, 3sc, ch3 skip 2 stitches, 3sc. Fasten off. Weave in tail.

Neckline:

Fasten yarn onto the working side of your neckline. Ch3, tr into the 3rd stitch from hook, skip 4 stitches, sc. Repeat until corners…at corners work 2sc next to each other, or do a sc decrease. This is so the picot will not take place on the corners. Fasten off. Weave in tail.

Finishing:

Sew three buttons on back

Weave ribbons through the eyelet. 

I hope you had fun making this dress! Please share pictures on Raverly, I can’t wait to see your work! If you have questions, I do tend to respond and see comments on the blog faster then Raverly.

Best wishes,
Jamie Quick

copywright2018 – this pattern is for personal use only. This pattern is not to be sold or redistributed.

A picture of it on Evelyn