Crafting

Sheer Dress Redone

Hi Sis,

Early this week, I sadly posted this sheer dress for sale. While, it wasn’t my first creation, as I had made a few dresses before the kids where born. It was the project, that turned me into a seamstress. Prior, to this dress my sewing was a means to end. Now, I sew for fun! This dress sparked the sewing of of over a dozen dresses within about a years time, as well as other projects. For once, my knitting needles are laying in their basket, wondering when I am going to pick them up again… probably this winter. lol.

The dress had a few issues, and as a delicate fabric I didn’t want to reconstruct it. Here was the dress originally. It was a beautiful cream, with trimmed sleeves.

  • The dress had a washing accident, where the hem tape bleed color onto the bodice and upper skirt. I fixed this by dyeing the whole dress. But, it never looked as beautiful in my eyes again, as it did when it was cream.
  • While washing and dyeing the dress, the sleeve trim was ruined, and had to be removed.
  • The dress was too short, I’m talking 5-7 inches off the ground. I had used all the fabric to make dress.
  • I returned to my post baby weight, and the bodice didn’t fit any more. And as a seamstress, and ill fitting bodice is a hard thing to look at, especially if you made it!

I’m goofing in this picture, but I think it shows a a few of the issues, that were driving me crazying.

 

I posted it for sale in the morning, and was anxious all day.  It was a 10 p.m while laying in bed, unable to sleep… that I figured out solutions to all of my problems. I really didn’t have to do that much seam ripping, and I sure didn’t have to take apart the bodice to fix it. I found away to drop the skirt almost three inches. 

Thankfully, I woke up the next morning, and the dress hadn’t sold. I removed it’s listings, took it to the sewing room, and fixed it.

On the first day, I removed the skirt from the bodice, and took in the sides seams. This was a bit slow, as I had to remove the pipping on the bottom, and restitch the hook and eye tape back on. I also, found some matching silk ribbon, and used it to create an outline on the sleeves.

On the second day, I seam ripped the entire flounce of the skirt, and reset it 2.75 inches lower.

And today, I stitched the skirt back onto the bodice. Eve (my four year old photographer) took these photos.

If you look closely, you will see that the back of the skirt is still too short… but it is better than before. It’s on a hillside, but the back is still over 4 inches off the ground. I can drop the entire back panel another 1/2 inch, and I think I will! But, as a whole the dress is much improved,. I’m relieved that it didn’t sell, and I can’t wait to wear it!

Love,

Jamie

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Longhorn NB-5T Regency Frock

Dear Sis,

We are finally working on adding a new era to our impression wardrobe! I’m started with Charlotte because I thought it would be a great way to ease myself in.

I found an e-pattern on Etsy: Longhorn NB-5T Frock sold by Virgil’s Fine Goods. It went together very nicely!

I fully lined the dress with white muslin so that it functions without an undergarment. The outer fabric is a sheer we found at JoAnn’s with the shirting fabrics. They had the same fabric in blue as well. 

All these drawstrings make the garment very flexible in size! The growth tucks also will help the gown grow with the child. The pattern suggests that with small modifications this same gown should fit from 3T-5T!

I used machine sewing anywhere the stitching would not be visible from the outside to save time. So you will notice the running stitch on the top layer of tucks, but machine stitching on the petticoat layer:)

Love,

b

Blue Cotton Sheer Dress

Hi Sis, 

I finally used up that fabric that we have been storing since 2013. Your originally purchased this fabric for the 150th Gettysburg Anniversary. While, you where busy figuring out how to make a corset for me, I was putting together two sheer dresses for both of us. My pink sheer turned out wonderfully, but your blue sheer looked like a giant great-grandmother’s nightgown with a hoop skirt.

Now, with more sewing experience, and knowledge of what looks better for your body type and height, I’m sure I could have made this dress into something much nicer for you. Due to your height, I’ve determined that adding something to the waist and bottom of the skirt, seems to help balance your overall silhouette, when we are working with very light shades of fabric. Also, custom fitted sleeves are a huge deal. Those bishop sleeves where so big, you could have used them as fishing net.

I’m sorry, I turned you into the pajama monster! But, I actually used most of your dress pieces from your old dress, to make this one. I only had to cut a a back and one sleeve out of scrap and left over fabric. And we still have one bodice… apparently, we tried to make two for you, and about a yard left. Eve wants a matching dress, but she told me not to make anything for Grant. It’s just supposed to be me and her that are matching this time. lol

Speaking of Eve, my recently turned four year old… she took all of these pictures! She had a blast, she loves to take pictures! She even says photographer, which is mouthful for her. I of course had to delete many photos where my head is chopped off, and I have a million pictures of plants. 

For dress construction, I actually used patterns!!! That is rather odd for me, as I generally make stuff up. lol I used the Past Patterns “A Sheer Muslin Dress with Bishop Sleeves, and Over-sleeves, for the sleeve pattern. I did make the bishop sleeve a lot smaller.  I know bigger sleeves where fashionable, but I generally go for smaller sleeves. For the bodice, I used Past Patterns, Pleated Bodice. Note for anyone using that pattern… I think the waist is very short, and the sizing for the measurement chart was off. My mock up was four sizes away from what I would have thought I needed, by looking at the sizing chart. Anyway, it wasn’t complicated, and it turned out very nice! If I make it again, I think I will tweak the back a bit more. I don’t really like the big puff. But, on a sheer I don’t find it offensive, but I am considering using the pattern on a wool or silk. 

For the skirt, I cartridge pleated it. And I paired the dress with a sash from one of my other dresses.

Love,

Jamie

Homemade Peppermint Yogurt Soap

Dear Sis,

This recipe was originally written in 2015 as three individual posts because the process is done over a span of several days. You pointed out that it would be easier for our visitors to have all the information in one place, so here goes:)

PART ONE

Supplies

  • Scale
  • Ice Cube Tray
  • Glass Liquid Measuring Cups
  • 2 High Side Stainless Bowls or Pots
  • 2 Long Handle Stainless or Plastic Spoons, preferable slotted
  • Digital Insta-Read Waterproof Thermometer
  • Immersion Blender
  • Rubber Spatula
  • Square Silicone Pan or Soaps Molds
  • Plastic Dishpan & Vinegar
  • pH testing strips

Ingredients

  • 4.5 oz distilled water
  • 4.5 oz whole milk yogurt
  • 9 oz coconut oil
  • 21 oz olive oil
  • 4.1 oz bead lye (sodium hydroxide)
  • 2 t peppermint oil

Safety

  • Hair Tied Back
  • Onion Googles
  • Long Sleeve Top
  • Rubber Gloves
  • Long Pants or Skirt
  • Apron
  • Socks & Closed Toe Shoes

Yogurt Soap Preparation

  1. Measure distilled water and whole milk yogurt.
  2. Whisk together water and yogurt.
  3. Pour into ice cube tray.
  4. Freeze.

Frozen




PART TWO

Step One – Measure Fats

Measure Fats

Place the 21 oz olive oil in the largest of the 2 High Sided Stainless bowls or pots. 

Measure 9 oz coconut oil in a microwave safe dish. Microwave until melted.

Step Two – Work Spaces

Lye Station

Lye Station

Place frozen yogurt/water cubes in the smaller of the 2 High Sided Stainless bowls or pots. Set out a thermometer, spoon, contained lye, and the googles, gloves, and apron. 

Blending Station

Blending Station

Set out measured fats, immersion blender, spatula, and mold.

Neutralizing Station

Nutralizing Station

Fill dishpan with warm water. Add a few splashes of vinegar.

Vinegar water solution neutralized lye. Use this water solution to wipe down surface and tool that may have come in contact with lye. 

Step Three – Measure Lye

Take care to pull back hair, dress in long sleeves, pants or a long skirt, with socks and closed-toe shoes, and put on apron, googles, and gloves.

Measure Lye

Gently spoon bead lye into dish to measure 4.1 oz.

Step Four – Dissolve Lye

Dissolve Lye

In a well ventilated area, pour lye into frozen yogurt cubes.

Stir continuously. Begin measuring temperature when cubes are nearly thawed.

Dissolve Lye

Continue stirring continuously, until temperature plateaus. It may take up to five minutes. Don’t jump the gun on this step, for as long as the temperature is rising, the lye is still dissolving. If you proceed too soon, there will be undissolved lye in your soap! You’re pH test will flop for sure. My batch plateaued at 70.3 degrees for a full minute and a half before I went on to the next step.

Step Five – Saponification

Saponification is the chemical process which occurs between the lye (base) and fats (acids), that results in soap.

Sadly, I wasn’t able to get photos for this step. I ran out of hands:( …but I’ll give more written details to compensate.

Combining Fats & Dissolved Lye

Pour melted coconut oil into olive oil. (All fats should now be in the larger of the 2 High Sided Stainless bowls or pots.) Pour dissolve lye into fats. Stir by hand a bit. Then add 2 t peppermint oil, if using.

Blending

Trade spoon for an immersion blender. Place the thermometer in the mixture again. As you blend the oil will loose its translucent quality. You may notice an ammonia like odor as you work. This odor is normal and harmless as long as you are working in a well ventilated area. The mixture will thicken, lighten in color, and become opaque. A low powered immersion blender’s motor will even change pitch as the mixture thickens. The thermometer will show another temperature spike as these changes occur, four degrees or so.

Pour into Mold

Mold

Pour saponified mixture into mold(s). Using a spatula to scrape the bowl or pot clean.

Place the molds in the refrigerator for 3 hours. Then remove to room temperature. The soap should be solid in about 12 hours.

Step Six – Clean up

Leave the goggles, gloves, and upon on until clean up is complete.

  1. All items that have lye or soap mixture on them, should be rubbed down with dish soap directly before rinsing well with hot water.
  2. Wipe down all work surfaces with vinegar solution.
  3. Wash gloves in hot soapy water, dip in vinegar solution, and towel dry hands before removing safely gear. 




STEP THREE

pH Testing

pH test

Moisten soaps surface with distilled water. Rub a pH test strip into the damp paste.

Safe soap is in the range of 7 to 10.

For a pH of 11 or 12, let soap sit a few more days and test again.

For readings above 12, only handle soap with gloves. Although pH will decrease over time, a pH of 12 or higher should be discarded.

Cutting

Cutting

I prefer a chefs knife, but a large pizza cutter or a cheese wire are also tools practical for cutting soap into bars. I cut my square mold 3×3, for a total of 9 bars.

Bars

Bars II

Curing

Curing

Curing means simply allowing the soap to dry out a spell. Place on a rack to increase air circulation in a location free of excessive humidity. Stand 1 month before using.

There is no harm in using uncured soap, it just gets gummy and disappears very quickly. It is well worth the wait!

Happy Soap Making!

Love,

b




Godey’s 1861 Fancy Belt Pattern

Hi Sis,

You gave me your old belt, the one I made you a few years back. Then, I got an idea! I was gonna have some fun!

Enter fancy belt, from Godey’s 1861.

Here is how it turned out! 

I planned to sell it, but now I’m not sure. 😂 It doesn’t look bad with my crazy bold kelly green silk dress. So, I may just keep it. 

Materials

Silk Taffeta
Interfacing
1 Inch velvet
Soutache braid 3 mm wide 
Buckle – You can find buckles from Ensembles from the Past and Button Barron

Step 1: Measure waist. Add 1 inch seam allowance, and 1 -2 inches for overlapping the back. Take this measurement and drawl it onto your silk tafffeta. If you want a two inch belt, cut it five inches wide.

Step 2: I interfaced my belt for extra stability, but this is optional.

Step 3: Sew one side of the belt (1/2 seam allowance), and down the main length. Do not sew other end. 

Step 4: Trim corners at end for a good fold/tip. 

Step 5: Invert. Iron, and use a butter knife to help give you a nice crisp edge along the seam.

Step 6: Fold in other end, and sew.

Step 7: Take one inch velvet, and sew it on 1/2 of an inch from bottom.

Step 8: Find center of belt, and put on buckle. Chalk the lines of your buckle, so that you know where to not have the braid loops getting in the way. Many period belts closed on the side.

Step 9: Mark where your braid loops will take pace, with a simple chalk line. You do not need to trace anything. Just mark the distance apart that you desire your loops, and stagger the top and bottom.

Step 10: Sew on braid.

Step 11: You can add a closure, such as a hook and eye. Or you can use a silk pin or two. I pin my belts on, and yes that is a period, and always a great fit!

Enjoy your belt!

 

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Fish Sleep Sack

Dear Sis,

All your recent visit have spurred a desire for me to make animal sleep sacks for Eve, Charlotte, and Grant like I did for William long ago (Owl Sleep Sack). Eve has been the floor sleeping kid, so I made her’s first:)

Materials

  • 2 yards fleece (outer fabric)
  • 5 1/2 yards broadcloth (lining and pillow sham)
  • 1 1/2 yards quilting cotton (tail, fins, and eye)
  • double sided fusible interfacing, such as WonderUnder
  • 2 (24 inch) metal zippers (closure)
  • tissue paper and clear tape (pattern making)

Assembly

  • Draft your tail, fins, and eye patterns onto tissue or pattern paper. The pattern photos below are on a 1 inch grid to help you scale the pattern.

  • Fold 1 1/2 yards printed quilting cotton in half and arrange tail (cut 2 on fold) and fins for cutting. Remember to add 1/2 inch seam allowance around curved portions of tail and fins. 
  • Place tail panels right sides together and sew curved areas with a 1/2 inch seam allowance, leaving straight section at the base of the tail open. Clip curves as needed, turn and press. Repeat with fins.
  • Cut 4 x 4 inch square from remnant printed quilting cotton and double sided fusible interfacing. Press with a hot iron to fuse both squares together. Trace eye pattern onto interfacing side and cut along the tracing line, no additional seam allowance is needed. 

  • Trim bulky salvage edge from fleece. Fold lengthwise and cut on the fold to create a front and back panels. 
  • Shaping top and bottom edges of fleece panels by centering tail at the bottom edge of the fleece panels. Chalk mark the flat space that is required at the bottom to attach the tail. Add curve to the top and bottom edge as desired with chalk and cut when pleased with the shape. Fold contoured bottom edge up until it meets the top edge of the fleece panels. Cut to match bottom shaping. Unfold. Working with just the top edge, chalk the opened mouth into the straight uncut area between the top and bottom curves. When pleased with the shape, cut the mouth opening.
  • Remove the bolt fold from the broadcloth and fold in the other direction so that fabric is open to its full width. Lay fleece panels at the bottom from the folded edge upward and a standard pillowcase above it. Cut lining to match the fleece panels. Cut pillowcase panels with a 1/2 inch seam allowance around the three seamed edges and an additional 2 1/2 inches at open edge for a rolled hem.

  • Lay a single layer of fleece out flat. Arrange and pin tail, fins, and eye in place. Sew on tail and fins using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Note: the front pectoral fin is not along the edge, so it will need to folded downward and topstitched to finish the raw edge. 
  • Fuse the eye in place with a hot iron. Using a dense zigzag stitch or the satin stitch, sew around the eye to finish the raw edge.
  • Pin tail and fins away from the edges of the fleece folding as needed. Place second fleece panel right side down over the first panel. Leaving the first 24 inches open on both side seams, stitch around using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Repeat with lining.
  • With fleece layer right side out and lining inside out. Place fleece inside lining and sew around unfinished edges with a 1/2 inch seam allowance leaving an 8 inch opening for turning. Turn and get lining situation inside fleece layer. Top stitch around opening on the front and back as close to the edge as possible turning the open 8 inches inward and stitching it closed as well. 

  • Switch to a zipper foot and install a zipper along the top and bottom curved edges.
  • For pillowcase, place panels right sides together and stitch along three edges using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Clip corners and turn right side out.
  • On open side, fold raw edge under 1/2 inch and make a 2 inch rolled hem and secure with machine sewing.

Enjoy your creation!

Love,

b

P.S. Two more designs are in my sewing queue… a yellow cat for Charlotte and a pink pig for Grant.

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A Yellow 1860s Dress for Charlotte

Dear Sis,

Charlotte is enamored with the color yellow! It is her absolute favorite!!! We happen to have some remnant from the day dress we made Mama Jenn last year. It is a yellow cotton/linen with large white window pane checks woven into it. During my planning phase, I usually try to find an originial for inspiration! I found one this CVD:

The original is likely a pale blue cotton. This girl is a bit older than Charlotte, but the window pane check is too perfect a match to pass up!!!

Although drafting patterns for children is not difficult, I usually start with Elizabeth Stewart Clark’s Infant Dress bodice patterns to save time. The pattern includes most variations: Two bodice cuts: one with an armscye and the other with a sleeve that creates its own armscye when sewn to the front and back panels. Both bodice styles can be made smooth, gathered, or pleated. It also has sleeve variations: long and short with smooth and gathered options. 

The shaping of this bodice requires the sleeves to be sewn to the front and back panels creating their own armscye in the process. My children are so long and lean the infant dresses fit well into 2T and 3T, I just have to lengthen them accordingly.

I started with a white cotton petti-chemise patterned and assembled exactly the same way as the dress with a thin band of eyelet around the hem, neckline, and sleeve bands. My only regrets: I wish I would have accounted for the length difference in the dress sleeve that is roll-hemmed vs. the chemise bodice that has a 1/2 inch eyelet. Then the two sleeve lengths would be more like the original image. But alas, I don’t care enough to actually fix it…lol!

The dress went together quickly. The only slowdown was the hand stitching needed to secure the dark brown braid and hook and eye tape closures in place. I also piped the neckline to give it a nice finished edge that would wear well. 

We are ready for our even this coming weekend!

Love,

b

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